Derek Jennings
Mission Impossible 2

Experience an account of the attempt to conquer the Himalayas while riding a bicycle from Nepal to Tibet and China

Three years have passed since my return from the Mission impossible in 1987 and another opportunity has arisen to attempt the journey from Kathmandu to Lhasa and Beijing again.

Unfortunately Doug is not able to accompany me, this time I will be alone. If I decide to do that and I do reach Lhasa I will have achieved my initial objective and will be content to return home from there and not continue to Beijing.

During my research I learnt that Nick and Richard Crane were allowed to cross the Nepal / Tibet border with their bicycles when they made their “JOURNEY to the CENTRE of the EARTH” (Urumqi) in 1987. They obtained a Chinese visa in London before starting out and now that is exactly what I have done. So Here Goes!! on what I hope will be “Mission Possible.”

Friday 30th March
London / Gatwick

10.30am Left home for Gatwick North Terminal, meeting the family there. Check in was once again a disaster! This time there was a separate charge for a bicycle of £172, plus excess baggage charges if any. Lengthy negotiations with the desk clerk and sales manager of Royal Nepal Airlines were fruitless and I paid up and was left with an empty feeling in my stomach (and my pocket!). Was this an omen of more disasters yet to come, just like the last time? Raj Desai suggested I contact him on my return to see if anything can be done, “I shall certainly do that”! A snack and family farewells before going to gate 59 for take off on RA 230 a Boeing 757 at 3.15pm.

My flight companion is a young man on a trip to take up a job in Japan in 2 months time. He is trekking Annapurna and visiting the Phillipines on the way, he tells me he was in Kathmandu in 1987. Sitting with him is a Nepalese lady, Utara, a rep with Adventure Travel who has knowledge of Tibet travel with a bicycle. She had dealings with the Crane cousins who rode a “JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH” (Urumqi Tibet) If I’m in trouble, she suggested China AAC might fly the bike to Lhasa! Landed Frankfurt 4.30pm (1 hour time zone). Strolled the airport and wrote the diary. Take off at 7pm for a 6 hour flight to Duhbai with dinner at 9, fish potato and leeks, salad, sponge mousse, wine and coffee.

Sunday 31st March
DUBAI

Another stopover, then took off at 5am local time for a 3 hour 25 minutes flight to Kathmandu, early morning temperature was comfortable at 64F. Approached Kathmandu and excitement coupled with concern came over me as I saw the Himalayan range for the 2nd time in 3 years! Landed at 10.30 and completed customs and assembled the bicycle in a new airport building by 12. Found the Thamel district by taking a slow ride with the aid of a map given by the “Nepal Traveller” couriers at the airport.

Checked out the Guest houses, and found the Imperial was a nice place, l50 rupees, but bike kept outside! Across the road the White Lotus G H charged 100 rupees and bike in the room! so settled for that. It had 3 beds, a private WC and shower with hot water! By 4 o’clock I’d washed and taken a walk around the Thamel district and was ready for a nap till 6. Felt confident having been here three years ago so spent the evening shopping. Some things have changed here since last time, a few new buildings have sprung up catering for tourists, and the military are in evidence in most of the squares. Prices have risen a little and I can get 32 rupees for a dollar which is higher than last time (21.60). Bed at 10.30.

Sunday 1st April
KATHMANDU

Woke at 8, having had a good sleep, which was surprising as I read a Tibet travel news sheet before going to bed, which said that Chinese visas issued in other countries (like the one I have) would not get you across the border! Breakfast at Didico restaurant across the road was Muesli, yogurt, and fruit and a pot of tea. Would you believe! Himal cottage G H that Doug and I used 3 years ago is now a block of shops! Spent the afternoon riding around the ring road and checking the whereabouts of the road to Kodari for tomorrow. The sun shone and I got a few shots of Swayanbunath Temple, stopping frequently to check the map. I really needed to know what areas I was passing through.

It got dark around 6.30 and with it came thunderstorms and rain. In the bookshop I found the cards and photo’s of the Dalai Lama I’ve been looking for. Now I’m all set for a good nights sleep and I start the journey tomorrow. What I’m really worried about is that I’ve still got the same anxieties about crossing the border that I had on the last trip, and I don’t know how I’m going to cope with another failure! Let’s hope and pray that the Chinese will look kindly upon me!

Monday 2nd April
KATHMANDU

After a fitful nights sleep I was packed by 8 and went for breakfast at Didico’s. Ate in the garden again with clear skies above and the company of the birdlife, sparrows, pigeons, crows, and some flies! Chatted with the proprietor, he says rents are dear, his is 8,000 rupees a month. Rode out of Kathmandu at 9.45 and by 12.30 was in Dhulikhel, very warm and could feel I was getting burnt! Checked Dhulikhel Lodge and restaurant but decided to keep going today on a slow ride, but who knows how far I shall get? Put on a shirt to cover my arms, bought a Coke for 5 rupees, and left.

The road climbed away from the Indrawati river and down to the Sun Kosi with short stretches of bad rock and dirt road, so rutted it reminds me of Peru except I’m coping better on a mountain bike this time. Terraced hillsides are spectacular here with dwellings dotted all over them, farming being the common thing around here. Not much in the way of food all day, so I took a rest half way up a soul destroying Pass and ate one of the Cadburys Creme eggs I’m carrying with me. By the end of the afternoon I was nearing Lamasangu, which I hoped might offer something in the way of food and rest as it is in the region of Everest base camp. Got there at 5 with 80km covered and a descent of 500 metres. Shelter took some finding but in desperation I plucked up courage and enquired at Siku Lodge and I’m here in a room on the top floor with a balcony overlooking the street. The restaurant is down below, and I waited there 25-30 minutes to get a piping hot glass of char and a regional dish of rice called Dal Bhat. I waited so long I began to think that perhaps they’d gone out to catch the bat! (after dark maybe). I managed to force it down, knowing I’d had nothing all day. Boy! was that hot and spicy, I turned down the glass of water served with it, too dangerous! but washed it down with a bottle of Fanta.

The route today had a number of water pipes at intervals so I was able to get a cool wash if not a drink. I’ve even had a soap and water wash tonight before bed, Helen will be pleased! The children were a nuisance today, running behind and hanging on the bike, the sleeping bag was most vulnerable. At one time they had it undone and laying in the road. Even when I repacked it and put the opening under the saddle one monster managed to drag it backwards until it was scraping on the back wheel. The proprietor of Siku Lodge envied the bike and asked if he could ride it, not wishing to offend him I agreed but was amazed to find he rode out of sight and was gone some time! I imagined all sorts of things had happened, but he came back and to my relief! brought the bike with him. Two km back I had passed the start of the trail to Jiri and Everest base camp today and was surprised to find no trekkers here using Siku Lodge.

Tuesday 3rd April
LAMASANGU

Up at 6.30 and went next door for food, not much there, only two glasses of tea and 2 fried eggs was all I got! Made a start at 8.45 and was soon on dirt and gravel roads which later turned to rock. The climbing was tough and I soon became weak with frequent rests at water pipes, pestered by kids! Crossing the Sun Kosi river the rain and thunder, came and all was not good. At the top of one climb! after about 20km I found a group of huts and begged a cup of tea in what I think is a char house, but I’m not sure, it seems more like a bus shelter! No tables in here, obviously no chance to eat, so I’ll have to try and get to Tatopani and hope for the best! Chanced a lunch there at 2.30, and Noodle soup and a mysterious potato, chilli, and bean mixture with a “7 UP” and a glass of tea cost 11 rupees, took a picture and left for Kodari. This road is backbreaking! breathtaking! and crucifying! Got a fantastic glimpse of Zhangmu hanging on the mountain side, I can’t explain my feelings, except all I know is that it’s probably going to take me all of tomorrow to get there, 8km UP!

The approach to Kodari was exhausting and I resorted to walking uphill 100 yards over rocks, I just couldn’t struggle any more! 36km covered by 4.30pm and a thunderstorm and rain started at the same time. Fortunately LAXMI Lodge at the entrance to the village was the only place to shelter, and it offered a single room, no lights, pitch black! so I can’t see how dirty it is! Using my torch I found it contained a shrine and the room was hung with faded dusty garlands. On the walls were pasted magazine pictures and articles and a few Coca-Cola adverts. I was made welcome, the bike was put in the rice store and I was helped up a rickety outside wooden staircase with my bags to my room. The Bhote Khosi river is thundering by outside just yards below as I sit on my sleeping bag on the balcony (nowhere else to sit!) getting the daylight to write this! 5.10pm. An hour later on the hard bed I was woken and asked if I wanted Char. Anything was welcome and taking a chance! I also forced down a dish of dal bhat (lentil soup and rice). Was in bed by 8.30 and glad of it. Got into my sleeping bag not chancing the supplied grubby duvet and pillow. The room is filled with choking smoke from the wood burning in the kitchen below!

Wednesday 4th April
Nepal Border – Kodari

It took some time to drag myself out of bed this morning, but had to as the lady of the house wanted to use the shrine for worship. In fact she lit the incense and prepared the altar while I was still in bed! I took the hint! and was up by 6.30. I slowly packed the bags, was offered a couple of glasses of tea, paid the bill 37 rupees and was away by 8.

So! this is it, a day trip to Zhangmu! They said the road is bad, but I didn’t reckon on this, rock strewn, steep, bumpy, and water filled muddy path! I was reduced to trekking in many places, and was followed by a young boy who helped me push in places. (gave him 50 paises and a 5p coin). Took a few photos on the approaches and drinks of water occasionally. I seemed to be getting nearer to Zhangmu sooner than I expected. By 10 o’clock I was within spitting distance, and another hours slog (riding quite a bit of it now) and the last 3km got me to the border.

Now for the TEST! There was no way I could approach the Immigration building unoticed, as a quarantine official was sitting in the doorway and he indicated I was to stop, I was then approached by customs officials outside the building and told abruptly that if I was not in a group I could not enter! I showed my Chinese visa but it was of no avail, a Lhasa endorsement was required! So! I haven’t even got inside the building to conduct the formalities. In fact the immigration officials are sitting outside basking in the sun, and waiting for clients. So this looks like it, a friendly chat to another customs guy, write the diary and then! Turn back down the Hill! It’s 2,400m here (7,200ft) I’d hung about for almost 3 hours and one last final appeal failed, so I pedalled away, my mind in a turmoil not really knowing what to do now. Should I join a group? (the guy had already told me I would not be allowed to do that with a bike!) Could I fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa and ride back. Martial law is in operation in Lhasa and thats clouding the whole issue! I guess its back to Kathmandu and think it out again!

A 2 hour ride back to Kodari was gruelling by which time I was more confused than ever. The immigration guy on the border was helpful and invalidated my exit visa he’d stamped in the morning so that let me back into Nepal again.

Travellers tales were told at the border, one a group returning from a two week trip to Lhasa, said it cost them 1,500 dollars and complained bitterly of a rip off! Another a young German with a Chinese visa issued in Bonn said he was going to Zhangmu tomorrow and telling me of other ways to get into Tibet. A Sherpa will take you over from Namanche Bazaar ending up in Tingri! he said. It all seemed too fantastic for words. I left him making his attempt thinking to myself “how do you score a goal when they keep moving the goalposts?” I rode using the daylight, down hill most of the time until by dark I was within 8km of Lamasangu and decided to strike out for Siku Lodge that I knew was there. Made it by 7 o’clock with nothing to eat all day save one Cadburys Creme egg I’d been carrying for a week. I was amazed that I did not suffer “hunger knock”, and a dish of Dal bhat was not much of a reward when I got to Siku Lodge anyway!

Thursday 5th April
LAMASANGU

Bad night here, mossies in the room so I put on repellent wrist bands. Couldn’t get to sleep due to the barking dogs throughout the night, dawn coming and noise of a village waking ended any more chance of sleep! Packed and paid for my lodging 30 rupees, went next door for tea and then off to Kathmandu!

The first 30km was pleasant enough, by which time I was getting hot and I shed my shirt. Climbed a couple of times above the Sun Kosi and the Indrwati Rivers again but eventually came the “BIG” one, the climb to Dhulikhel. It took me 2 hours and early on the climb I managed to get a cold Coke and buy 8 small bananas (8 rupees). By 1.30 I had decided to check out Dhulikhel Lodge for lunch, I was tired, hungry, and needed a rest before tackling the afternoon ride to Kathmandu. At this stage I was easily persuaded to stay overnight, after all it will be my only chance to get my pictures of Mt. Everest! From the outside it did not look inviting (which was one reason why I turned it down on the way out) but once inside I was pleasantly surprised. An entrance corridor led into a garden courtyard which led to reception and a restaurant with a separate garden. They let me bring my bike in and told me that for single people it was dormitory sleeping – 30 rupees. It was on the top floor 3 flights up in the roof! but fine enough for me. It’s empty at the moment and I’m in Bed No.1 of about 16 mattresses all laid in a row on the floor, dimly lit with small wattage lamps and basket weave shades. Some European and Yankee independent back-packers are here, so it’s a quick wash and more important! “lets get some food inside me”.

This place is something different, a menu written in English! which includes, Soup, Soya bean meat and chips, Pizzas, Chicken and rice several ways, and of course Dal Bhat! I chose vegetable soup, which was delicious (not spiced) and with undercooked carrots, green beans and cauliflower. Feeling better now I took a walk and a ride in the village checking out a suitable Everest sunrise viewpoint to get photos. I was greeted by a crowd of children, one of them named Pradeep told me not to take any notice of the others who were pestering me, they only wanted money! He only wanted to practice his English and he would lead me to the viewpoint.

There was not much of a view this afternoon! so Pradeep asked if I would like to go to his house. Only his sister was there, his father was in Kathmandu receiving medical treatment accompanied by his mother. He made me tea and offered bread in a 3 bedroomed house, he had a desk on the landing where he was working on a competition painting. His paints were given by a pen-friend. School hours are 10 to 4 with Friday afternoon and Saturday off. He finally asked me if he could have a look at an English £1 (just to see what it looked like!) And then, did I have anything from England he could keep. He was so charming I promised to return tomorrow if I could find something for him, his parting gesture was, can I have a ride on your bike? Back at the Lodge I frantically looked for something for him and I came across the digital watches I carried. That would do I’m sure!

Chatted to a German guy from Munich who had travelled overland from India by bus, he tells me there is a national strike tomorrow, likely to last a week! I wonder if that will delay my phone call home? So now! it’s another meal, this time, veg and cheese. The German expressed a dislike of returning to a Greater Germany “you don’t like?” I asked, “of course not” he replied. We spoke of other things, such as changing world weather patterns, his health (sinus and stomach problem). Even India, and my Nepal trips came into it.

Writing this diary is becoming a real pain (in the Bum!) The only place to sit here is on the floor! The restaurant doubles as a sitting room with Paliases covered with rugs against the wall, scatter cushions and a small coffee table in front of each place, not comfortable for an aged gentleman to eat or write! The only other place is in bed, and thats on the floor! So a Cola and off to bed at 9pm, It’s up at 5am to catch the sunrise on Everest, I hope its clear!