Derek Jennings
Mission Impossible 2

Experience an account of the attempt to conquer the Himalayas while riding a bicycle from Nepal to Tibet and China

Saturday 14th April
BAISHJANGAR

Up at 6 and grabbed milky tea next door and was Away! by 7.15. Saw the “Himalaya” in all its splendour as I headed NW out of the village, it was sunny towards the giant, snowy barriers and by 8.30 I had forded a large stream, negotiated a couple of road works and stopped twice for Coke and tea at Paudi. The riding is strenuous over rocky rutted gulleys, up some steep short climbs usually away from streams, and the mid morning sun is causing perspiration problems! The concentration of not falling off and injuring myself is intense, how I would cope with an injury, or even an illness I just don’t know? It occurs to me that feeling fit and well is of utmost importance, otherwise all else fails! Made Philesangu for an early lunch, albeit I had, just one hour ago had a late breakfast (two egg omelette and 2 dry bread slices!) Never too sure how hard the next km’s are going to be and whether the “hunger knock” will strike, so it’s muesli and more milky tea, this time in the Hotel Moti and away to BESI SAHAR.

I have bumped into a German couple trekking with a guide and two porters who said they’d seen the French biker on the Thorung La Pass a week ago. They didn’t ridicule him (like everyone else has) just because he was alone, – unguided, unportered, and on a bicycle! I am being told daily by the Nepali people that my trip by bicycle is impossible! Here at Besi Sahar where the jeep road ends, the guy at the Hotel Annapurna is now telling me “from here the road is bad” Well! I’ve got this far and the old Taurus stubborness is prodding me and telling me to go and have a look. He says Kudi is 21 ⁄2 hours away so if I leave here at 3pm I should make it by nightfall. Two hours later I discovered, “He wasn’t Kidding!”

After descending to a rocky river out of Besi Sahar I was directed off the best road by a group of Nepali’s. when I asked them my way 2 to Kudi. I was then faced with a steep rocky stone stepped ascent up a hillside that would even be difficult trekking with a backpack. My heart sank! could it all be like this from now on. After a short pause I gave it a shot, but the loaded bike was unmanageable, I jettisoned the bags and climbed a few more feet to a shelf and went back for the bags. Rested and researched the guide book and map and found I should be on the West side of the river, and I believe I have crossed it and I’m now on the East. I cursed my guides and angrily went back. Was met at the bottom by another group of Nepali’s who insisted it was the right way to Kudi but I was too OLD and wouldn’t make it with a bike!

A route discussion ensued for 1 ⁄2 hour and they convinced me I hadn’t crossed the river as I thought and I would get to Kudi going the way they said. So what now! I just couldn’t face another trip up the staircase! and I even turned down offers of portering for me, not knowing how long that would have to be done? I just couldn’t face making an on the spot decision so it was back to Besi Sahar 1km away, for a nights rest and I’ll go and have another look at it in the morning! I’d had to make one or two efforts to protect myself today, the backs of my hands which had got burnt soon after arriving in Kathmandu weren’t improving I’ve, applied glacier cream and tried to buy thin gloves, but cannot find anything suitable so I decided I would have to use my thin thermals!

Back at the Annapurna hotel it was an evening of mixed thoughts and opposing decisions! Yes! tomorrow go and try it, OR don’t be a fool!, you’ve made too many mistakes already, (the biggest one at the beginning!). Don’t make matters worse, call it a day! So my confusion continued through the night and the last truck to arrive from Dumre accompanied by a thunderstorm and rain, brought a group of independent trekkers, soaking wet and in need of shelter. That livened the place up for a while!

Sunday 15th April
BESISAHAR

Up just after 6 and shortly the place was busy. Cooking began and the trekkers were making ready to move off. Breakfast was expensive, 45 rupees for omelette, 2 honey toast, and a pot of tea. Five pairs of trekkers and one alone set off and I was left with my thoughts, but by now I felt I should not give myself any more hassle. It was going to be hard enough getting back to Pokara and then to Kathmandu, but at least I was in a condition to do so, (or so I thought?) Going on to Kudi even if I’m physically capable (and I doubt it) could change that situation! so my mind was made up, it was back to Pokara and some sort of sanity!

Didn’t hurry and left about 8.30 passing through Philasangu to Bhote Odar by 12, having stopped for tea at Hotel Moti and a double Coke here at Bhote Odar. Whilst I’m writing this diary I am gathering an audience including a Gaine (minstrel) who insists on begging and serenading me when all I want is a bit of peace and quiet! NO chance of that here!! I’ve applied germolene to the back of my hands and protected them with thermal gloves to ward off the sun. It’s very strong today and I’ve spent some time taking photos looking back at Annapurna for the “LAST TIME”.

It has just occurred to me that it is Easter Sunday and my thoughts fly back home. I’d love to be there this moment with Helen, I really have had enough! I think I’m cured for good now, it would be nice to enjoy my family and home environment. This is one sure way of making you realise what you turned your back on, even if it was only for a short while. Just outside Bhote Odar lies a Tibetan chorten that was quite a spectacle set against Annapurna today. I hope I got some good shots, in fact the range is bathed in sunshine, ideal for getting good photos of this region. I’m worried that the camera is not right! I’ve only got the Canon AEl with me and using it on the auto setting the exposure doesn’t seem right. Could the batteries be low? Found a tea stop at Paudi, (two Cokes and milky tea with roti!) and at two other places in the afternoon. By 5 o’clock the hope of reaching Dumre by tonight was on my mind.

Once again I seem to have missed Tuture but this time I luckily stumbled across it! The road bypassed a rather big, bustling village which I saw below and I found my way in. In a case like this its rather unsettling because everyone is in the street as you approach. Shopkeepers in front of every shop, small groups gather talking and watching and there was even a Nepalese board game called CARROM which looked like combined, “shove halfpenny snooker” being played in the middle of the road. I arrived amidst the noise and weird aroma’s, riding slowly through the street gathering more and more children as I went. They’re shouting “hello, goodbye, where are you going,? hello, hello, hello!” causing more and more commotion and then you realise you are the only stranger in the whole place, and also from a different culture! Not sure of how you’re being accepted and no way of communicating was rather frightening!

I found a Lodge where things were a little quieter called the “Hotel Nice” where I got my first wash for two days! Not in the hotel but out in the street under a stand pipe, standing waiting my turn with other villagers. They were collecting their domestic water in urns and taking it to be poured into steel drums with a tap, or similar containers, that stood in the street outside their homes!

Easter Monday
April 16

Up at 6 again with just two milky teas on offer! The total bill come to 59 rupees, 15r the bed, 25r a meal (noodle soup and veg with fried rice) plus drinks. Made a start for Dumre which was further away than I imagined. Arrived just after 8 and got two milky teas in a roadside bhati but failed to get them to make me an omelette, so it was a soldiers farewell! and I’m off! I’ll be seeing Dumre again on my way back to Kathmandu. Village shops are stocked with spirits (Vodka and Khulkuri *** wine) packets of biscuits, toilet rolls, packet noodles, bread, fresh eggs, Iceberg and Star beer, packets of tea, soap and cigarettes. Took a two Coke stop at Damuali and another just 10km up the road, getting hot now and it doesn’t take much to get heat exhaustion!

Made Damuali by lunch for another two Coke stop, it looks as though it could be a personal best today, I’ve never been so thankful that fizzy drinks are so readily available. I had to revise my thoughts once again about the Pokara road being flat, the 35km after lunch were undulating to say the least, only the last 10-15km were flat when the road rose onto the rim of a canyon. I’ve finally managed not to respond to the childrens questions and greetings even if it means being considered a miserable old sod!! Once you answer in anyway it leads to being followed by the patter of feet and flip-flops and small voices crying “give me your pen” chocolate “where are you going” not the sort of thing you want when you’re dripping with perspiration, exhausted, and in your lowest gear and gasping with every thrust of the pedals as you switch to alternate sides of the road to miss the worst of the ruts and stones. Usually the edges are in the best condition, but keep a look out! because all too often irrigation or drainage ditches appear cut across the path at right angles and a swift detour into the road is called for.

If the timing is not right CRASH! and you’re off! Today, it must have been the hottest yet! and many can be seen under a black umbrella (even some porters). The tar was melting on the road this afternoon, although I suppose I was lucky to have a tarred asphalt road to ride on!

It was a personal best today, I puffed my way into Pokara at 3 o’clock, and the cold drinks total had risen to 8!! At one stop this afternoon I had considered a triple! but managed to control it. So! I’m back to the safe haven of the Mount View hotel and I’m sure in need of it! My shirt has been bathed in sweat for days, right across the back and shoulders, heavily stained with dried perspiration. The contents of the money belt I carry is saturated and I had to separate each note and lay it out to dry. Then it was a shower! I showered with my shirt on, then trod it underneath myself whilst I rinsed, “that should improve its appearance” and odour! Spent time on the diary and a nap, before a dinner down at K C’s. Today I noticed my urine output has ceased.

Tuesday 17th April
POKARA

I intend to do nothing today, an exhausting ride yesterday was enough! Grabbed another look at some traditional Thanka paintings then back to a German bakery for coffee and cinnamon toast, whilst writing cards until lunchtime. Took a short ride in the afternoon to Tashiling Tibetan refugee camp, no Thanka paintings around, mainly wool spinning and carpet weaving One young lad took me to his house to look at souvenirs. He then cadged a ride on the bike as a reward! Went back and spent the rest of the afternoon on correspondence, I’ve written 11 cards today. Strolled to lakeside for a meal and walked for 1⁄2 hour checking out souvenirs (spoons), it gave me the opportunity to see at close quarters what the shops had for sale without having to keep hopping on and off the bike and worrying about its safety whilst inside (if there was an inside?) Didn’t find a lot that appealed to me. Bumped into the Bodnath teachers parents tonight and an Aussie from Brisbane making his way to India, both of whom I’d spoken to in Kathmandu on Revolution weekend. I’ve had a Pee! before bed! so the dehydration problem has improved.

(maleria tablet day)
Wednesday 18th April
POKARA

Plagued in the night with the irritation from “mossie bites”, applied repellent, and I think it might have prevented the perishers from approaching! but according to the bottle it can be a skin irritant itself and that might have been my problem? I’ll see if I can get it right tonight! Rose at 6 to see sunrise on Annapurna but it was a bit disappointing, quite hazy and only one peak visible, took a couple of shots anyway. I’m now more aware than ever that this place has the largest number of agencies for travellers I have ever seen. Overland travel to any part of this continent, trekking, and white water rafting are offered by literally hundreds of agents in this small area! It seems almost impossible that they can all survive. The budget travellers roaming Asia must be in amazing proportions, all young of course! I’m the only geriatric to be seen! India and Thailand seem to be places most go to from here. Hippies mainly, quite a few looking as though they’ve existed for quite a time on low budgets but life here is not costly by European standards. Their appearance is quite acceptable here, they’re usually dirty, unkempted and not very healthy, the minimum of clothing, which to say the least is weird and also dirty! I wonder what they think of bike riders?

To Westerners eyes it’s hard to understand, but amongst it all, when you glance around it’s obvious that the whole community are aware of everyones needs whether they’ve money or not. They will offer you every need “at a price!” mainly lodging, food, travel, and souvenirs by the ton! You would think I would know by now, wouldn’t you? but I must be a sucker! for a polite approach. Everybody seems to be well practised! children and adult alike, asking questions and offering advice. One innocent response leads to another until you realise you’re not going to escape their clutches until you’ve agreed to use their services (and part with money!) A ride to Tashiphalkel Tibetan refugee camp was the latest episode about 8- 10km from Lakeside. I was spotted approaching on a rocky, dusty road and casually met about 400 yards from the camp by one guy, who introduced me to his friend and said he would be delighted to show me around, which he did explaining some Tibetan and Buddhist culture at the same time.

He eventually led me to his house, gave me tea, and showed me souvenirs. I gave 180 rupees to him to support the Tibetan cause in payment for a guided tour with tea! and a souvenir spoon. It’s very difficult to extricate yourself from this situation once it’s gone that far! I did succumb to buying the spoon, at a highly inflated price! No paintings around, so back in Pokara checked out the original Thanka art shop I dealt with 2 days ago and got a bartered down price of 900 rupees for my original choice. Not too sure of the artistic standard and skill of the piece but it seemed to be a good example of the art form. Business practices here are quite shrewd, every individual seems to be involved in more than one. Even souvenir sellers can be seen one day in a shop or on another at a roadside stall or next with their wares spread out on the ground beside the road. At other times the same one is seen sneaking in and out of hotels and restaurant gardens pestering the customers to buy from the mysterious contents in the shoulder bags they carry with them. They’re usually young girls of Thai origin.

Another thing that has really annoyed me over the past couple of weeks is the lack of privacy and the downright nosiness! of everyone. Writing the diary, corresponding, or even map reading can be quite annoying, it usually attracts onlookers who if they can’t see properly will just pick up anything that’s lying beside you and begin reading it and asking questions. It is not easy to write personal thoughts whilst someone is peering over your shoulder as you write (the big temptation is to write some rude remarks!)

Got the cards away today (11) and asked R Nepal Air if I could fly a week early, no luck! I will still keep trying. Took a shower this afternoon and a slow stroll to the lakeside, it was very warm. Confirmed the spoon I bought at the Tibetan camp WAS! overpriced, they’re 1 ⁄2 price here so I bought another for 60r. Last purchase of the day was a hand woven shoulder bag (in my cycling club colours!) from the Tashiphalkhel Tibetan refugee camp shop at lakeside 80r. Wrote a letter to Helen over tea and fruit salad at the Old Vienna coffee house, and later tried a meal beside the lake at Damside in a garden beside the waters edge, called itself The Lakeview Restaurant. Very nice! I hadn’t tried this one before, it could have been better had Helen been with me on this occasion. Food was, chicken corden bleu, chips and salad. It looked something like a large beefburger! and I’m sure there was some slices of Buffalo concealed in it somewhere! Finished off with a jumbo apple strudel, Coke and tea.

Thursday 19th April
POKARA

Like yesterday I was up at 6 to a sunrise on “Annapurna” but it was even more obscure than yesterday so it’s a leisurely breakfast beside the lake at K C’s. Got a letter to Helen and a card to Peter sent off and tried Royal Nepal airlines again. Nothing’s bloody simple around here! I’m so frustrated and despairing, even after explaining to the travel agency guy what I wanted and getting him to speak on my behalf he got one wrong number and another unanswered! After 1⁄2 hour I just had to give up and face the fact that it’s back to Kathmandu in the morning and speak to them myself. I don’t know whether I can stand any more of these knockdowns. Maybe it is my fault? are my expectations too demanding, or impossible!! It’s about time I learnt not to keep trying to do the impossible!

Got a lake row boat this afternoon, just one hour for 20 rupees. It was hazy all the time with threatening thunderstorms, can’t expect any good pictures but I enjoyed rowing myself around the Temple Island. On the way back to the hotel to make ready for tomorrow I got talking to Tom Beasley, a Yank from Seattle living in Taiwan who is spending a couple of months here. Having now spent some time here myself I’ve come to realise that the weird habits seen in India are no different here! Chew vendors are a common sight as are fruit trolleys on 4 bicycle wheels, not to mention the spitting! The air reverberates with throaty efforts of the spitters! Tried a meal called Beam-Beam tonight as a farewell to Annapurna.

Friday 20th
POKARA

Up at 5.45 and away by 7, got some final sunrise shots across the lake and it’s back to Kathmandu to whatever awaits me there! Covered the first 50km in 3 hours, the result of an early start. The sun not having risen too high I’d reached Mugling by 12.30, the 90km on only 2 glasses of milky tea. Met the farmer walking along the road that I’d given first aid to a week ago. His leg looked clean, but still uncovered. Took a picture of him, he seemed pleased he’d seen me, and the feeling was mutual. Had time to reflect on the trip whilst enjoying an easier ride this morning. I’ve come to the conclusion that in essence it could be summed up in a few words. I’ve been searching for them these past 3 weeks, It’s got to be “Mission Impossible” and my appetite for adventure bike travel has been lost for ever now, I must face it, I am no longer capable of the physical effort needed and unable to cope with the anxiety, frustration, and worry about the problems that never seem to be overcome completely.

I left Mugling after 2 Cokes to tackle the road works I knew were on the outskirts. I was looking for Fishling which I remembered was a rafting centre, perhaps that would have suitable camping space? It was 14km more than I reckoned! But at 2 o’clock I made it and stopped for a Coke to cool off, the heat was intense! I decided to call it a day. It’s 95km to Kathmandu and that can wait until tomorrow. A friendly proprietor said I could camp anywhere but his friend advised against sleeping in the open, he said there were thieves about and I could sleep on his porch and put my bike inside.

I spent the afternoon in the shade of a tree across the road overlooking the river, cooking a meal. I was determined that having dragged the equipment around for 3 weeks I was going to use it at least once! Glad I’m not sleeping here, there’s quite a lot of creepycrawlies about, giant ants, grasshoppers, and ground lizards. Hung about outside the rafting place after the meal which had taken me a long time to prepare and clear up, could not get the stove to burn well, not enough heat and too much soot which got everywhere! I’ve got an idea I’ve got the wrong grade fuel! Used 2 packets of freeze dried meals I’m carrying. Beef bourgignon with rice, and Cherry conde (rice again) Plagued with flies and ants all the time I later cadged a tea (black) and hot chocolate (black) before settling down on the verandah floor of the rafting centre balcony where a thin foam mattress had been laid out for me. A couple of native guys introduced themselves to me and said they were riding mountain bikes back to Kathmandu in the morning, one of them said he was training for the Mountain bike championship there on May 5th. They offered to ride with me! I’m not looking forward to that! It could turn into a race! but I can’t escape now, they said they’d pick me up at 6am tomorrow.

Saturday 21st April
FISHLING

The buses and truck traffic was continuous through the night, passing within yards of where I lay on the balcony facing the road. Goes without saying how much rest I got! at least I was laying down, that was a plus! The noise was deafening and I was up by 5.30, ready by 6. Nothing on offer to eat or drink so it was a rinse under the standpipe, and a mouthwash then away by 6.10, no sign of the mountain bike guys! but there were about 8 rafting porters with all their gear laid in a row outside the store below me who appeared to have slept there all night as I intended to do, and the “warning” I’d been given last night about thieves coming in the night on rape and pillage raids didn’t seem to apply to them! The only place I’ve come across this morning a few miles up the road is “Blue Heaven” restaurant in an oil development area (Gulf) which was almost civilised.

I selected breakfast from a printed menu and asked for muesli/curd and was told the curd was sour! never mind, fried egg and chips is not bad is it? I’ll do a few kilometres on that. Away by 9, but it’s now getting warm, the road, hilly, rocky, dusty, and bumpy. Traffic was a problem as well, so by 10.30 I was ready for a 2 Coke stop. By 12 o’clock I was having to stop every 3 or 4km, the heat was exhausting and unbearable, then I came across a bhati, and stopped, a longer stop this time. Who should turn up eventually but the two mountain bike guys! I hope they don’t want me to ride with them, they’re only travelling light with a small backpack! I struggled over my Dal Bhat and managed to eat it, which took time and led to a longer rest. That’ll do me good later!

Felt a lot better by 1.15 and decided to make a move as the mountain bikers had now gone! although it was still hot but I can always stop for Coke several times during the afternoon. The bad road was never ending, in fact it seemed to get worse, very hilly, and the rocky surface shook every bone in my body continually with the sun blazing down. I wanted to get to Kathmandu tonight otherwise I could have waited until sundown then camped and ride the final miles tomorrow. Made three more Coke stops during the afternoon, downing 5 bottles of the stuff! The last one was “On the House”! I’d stopped, would you believe at a bhati run by the sister of the guy at the lunch stop I’d patronised. He had just turned up here and insisted on buying me a Coke. It was still 31km to Kathmandu but there’s signs of the sun going down and I’m anxiously awaiting the start of a good road, but not the long hard climb over and into the Kathmandu Valley, I know that’s to come.

The bad road went on for another 6km to the spot where Doug and I are pictured on our Himalayan adventure at Naubise in 1987, now the tough bit begins! I must have a Coke before I start, bought 5 oranges and ate 3, then away. Climbed slowly for l1 ⁄2 hours grabbing a tow on a slow moving truck a couple of times, so the very trucks that caused me so much trouble all day finally came to my rescue, But not quite! One little incident on the way up caused my front wheel to hit a rock laying in the road that brought me off (the first time on the whole trip). I suffered knee and elbow abrasions and my watch ripped off and the buckle broken. I stuffed it in my pannier and carried on to the top. I was shaken up, and the wounds needed dressing. Not much use stopping now I’ll do that at the Lotus guest house, if I ever get there! The last hour was in the dark! but I was moving better, except the traffic and noise of Kathmandu at night accompanied by a dust storm came as a bit of a shock and not what I needed, to round off a horrendous day! The Guest House gave me a room where a shower, wound dressing, and diary writing finished off a day that I shall well remember, as the toughest of the trip. I lost count of the Coke total. It was at least 10 (a record!) It seems to have been a day of superlatives!