Preface

‘Bikecentennial’ ’76 (a non profit organisation) was set up to celebrate Americas Bicentennial. Three years research enabled them to plan the route of the Trans-America — Trail. It was 4,250 miles in length, passing through 10 States. Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, and Virginia.

Participants were invited to ride all or part of the Trail in either direction E or W, independently or in company with a small organised group and a leader.

Low cost overnight shelter to be known as BikeInns would be available every 50 miles using schools, community halls, hotels, and other public buildings, (floor space provided for sleeping bags). Camping areas can also be used.

Maps and guide books will be provided. The format is unique and contains information a bicyclist needs to know, as he rides the Trail.

The route spans 25 forests, 2 National Parks, Five major mountain ranges, passes through or near vast stretches of primitive or wilderness areas as well as prairies, grasslands, and small stretches of desert. /t captures the essence of rural America.

From this information provided by Bikecentennial and using all of the eight weeks he’d arranged with the DAILY MAIL to be away from work. Derek’s plan was this, —

1 Attempt all the Trail, Ocean to Ocean (Pacific to the Atlantic) W to E, and arrive in Yorktown Virginia a little more successful than General Cornwallis and the English army were, some 200 years ago when defeated by the Americans!

2 Ride independently so not to hamper anyones progress and more importantly not to let them hamper his.

Time was of the essence!, of the eight weeks scheduled one week would be spent travelling to the country and back which, leaves only 7 weeks to ride the Trail. One days rest might be needed each week which meant 42 days was available to ride Four Thousand Two Hundred and Fifty miles. 4,250 divided by 42 works out quite nicely to 100 miles (a day!).

The Trail was open throughout the summer of 1976 and Derek chose June 12th to set out on what his family and friends encouraged him to believe would be a “JOURNEY OF A LIFETIME”.


My Thoughts 20 Years Later

Looking back to the days preceding the ride and the years following, a few observations can be made. ‘Bikecentennial 70’ produced several information leaflets prior to the inaugural ride and I have questioned why, I as an experienced bike rider at the time dismissed what they contained thinking I could cope well enough myself.

One was directed at those considering to ride independently, and gave this advice.

Weigh up the facts carefully. Riding as an Independent and striking out alone requires special determination, discipline, and maturity, together with considering the type of terrain and the time available to do it! However it does give you the opportunity to choose your riding companions, itinerary, and budget. But if you don’t plan carefully you’ll end up carrying far too much and spending more time and money than you want.

“The trail” was described in the following way.

Planned for the average bike rider the Trans America Trail winds through some of America’s most scenic and historic terrain. But it is an isolated land. It is void of large cities and direct thoroughfares. Tourist services and facilities are limited. Food is purchased in small grocery stores and fast food chains. However if you have enough time and can adjust your budget, you will be rewarded by spending time in an America unknown to most people. Help to establish the trail. Good public relations with the people, communities, and road users along the trail are vitally important, show them your respect and courtesy. A friendly wave lets them know you are aware of their approach and often elicits a friendly response.

Yet another leaflet entitled “Getting In Shape” offered advice to inexperienced cyclists about a planned training programme and what food and rest to include in it.

Other matters to consider were:-

1 Bathe and launder frequently! Chow important is that to an adventurer I wonder?)

2 “Don’t underestimate the force of the sun and the elements especially at high altitudes”. Many cyclists abandon tours because of overexposure!

Most of the information given by ‘Bikecentennial 70’ prior to the start of my journey eventually proved to be true. My diary entries will testify to this and since then I am now of course a lot wiser!!!

After the inaugural year of 1976 a study revealed that 2,000 rode the entire trail (15% as independents). Most riders found the common problems were 1 Route maps and guide books were not readable! 2 The BikeInns were too spartan! 3 Riding in groups sometimes resulted in not completing the ride. The reasons given were — not physically able — incompatible with the group — accidents — illness and a change to Independent.

Final conclusions were drawn, from the survey among them being:-

“Travel broadens the knowledge and understanding of people and the land — by bicycle it is more than an activity, it is a lifestyle!”.

Once again my diaries will testify to this.


Day 1

Saturday 12th June
London

Said goodbye to my wife Helen, her cousins Grace and Frank and my son and daughter Bob and Angela at 2.15pm. After going through security I entered the departure lounge to begin my first ever trans continental flight. Met a chap as I boarded the Boeing 707 with Bikecentennial motifs all over him. Haven’t found out his name yet but he plans to ride E to W. The take off @Omins late) was smooth and not much of a sensation. Captain said we are flying North over Ayrshire and Mull of Kintyre at 32,000ft crossing the Atlantic to the north passing near Greenland and then over Labrador and Quebec to New York. Tea was served soon after take off, Salmon and sala- mi sandwiches scone butter and jam, rich fruit cake and tea, lovely! Sat next to two ladies who were visiting friends — good company and friendly.

Passed the Southern tip of Greenland after 3% hours and Goose Bay Labrador after 5% hours. Dinner around 7.30 was chicken, bacon, corn on the cob croquette potatoes, game pate and ryvita, strawberry meringue, cream cheese and biscuits wine and coffee. Ate the lot! Landed New York 6pm US time (5 hours difference), then it was through customs and by bus to next building CAA airlines). Spent all night on the departure lounge floor just nod- ding and watching other passengers, I’ve heard too many stories of the dan- gers in downtown New York to go there!


Day 2

Sunday 13th June
Kennedy Airport

Beautiful morning, clear blue sky, and a wash and brush up at 6.00am. Checked bike in at 7.00am paid 10 dollars oversize baggage charge to Eugene Oregon. A quick coffee and a walk outside the departure lounge to get the feel of the place before boarding the D.C.10 Luxury Liner to San Francisco. Booked a seat by the window and took off on time, flying east over Long Island before heading North and then West over Lakes Ontario, Huron and Michegan flying at 35,000ft at 50Omph.

Marvellous view of the country below, still sunny and no cloud, difficult to get an indication of gradient from this height it all looks flat. Coffee served on take off then brunch at 10.30 consisting of orange juice, steak and scrambled egg and tomatoes, pineapple and mandarins, a delicious souffle type cake Chad 2) and coffee. Treated myself to a bottle of wine with the steak, 1 dollar. Climbed to a height of 39,000ft to cross St. Paul Minneapolis (Minnesota) Pierre and the Black Hills of South Dakota into Wyoming (cloudy) across S.E. corner of Idaho and N.W. corner of Utah into Nevada Cooked vast and empty). Coffee and sandwich at 1.30pm. Snow on the mountains and areas of what looked like desert. Landed San Francisco 12 midday local time after 5% hour flight.

Airport much cleaner than New York, more leisurely and the people seem more affluent. Walked to the United Airline building next door, didn’t have to touch my bike, it was transferred from plane to plane without me seeing it. Flight to Eugene was 30 minutes late. A Boeing 737 twin engine jet. A short flight along the Cascade mountain range past Crater Lake took about an hour and we land Eugene at 3.00pm. Five other bike boxes were on board belonging to 4 lads and a girl one of them about my age. Sat next to a family setting up a new home in Roseberry Oregon from Rhode Island. Wife and 3 young children, husband had been there 7 weeks. Had a snack then waited with a crowd of other riders (about 8) for a shuttle bus at 6.30 to take us ninety miles to Reedsport after picking up more riders at Amtrak and Bus stations. Taken to Lutheran Church for the night. Assembled the bike and found the brake hood adjuster and pump connector missing, otherwise all was O.K. I got to bed about midnight.


Day 3

Monday 14th June
Reedsport Oregon

Felt cold all night so slept in my clothes for about 5 hours. Rose at 7 and teamed up with 4 Americans and joined them for a picnic breakfast at a war memorial park after they’d purchased cereals, milk and oranges at the local Safeway. It now seems that food is going to be a problem so I have purchased a mess tin and utensils so I can eat out. The next thing I must get is a sleeping bag, overnights are likely to be spartan if last night is an example! Saw the film “Bike back into America” at the trailhead HQ at 11.00am.

Winchester Bay, Reedsport Oregon, Bikecentennial 1976
Start 4,250 miles here Winchester Bay, Reedsport, Oregon. Day 3

Wrote letter to Helen and posted (1 cents). Rode out to Winchester Bay to the Pacific Ocean to say farewell before commencing my Ocean to Ocean journey. Two camping groups were also out here doing the same thing. Went back to Reedsport for my first cafe meal and couldn’t understand the menu language, it certainly wasn’t English! Spoke to Forrester Taylor at the next table and spent the night at his apartment on his invitation, quite a character (a local Lawyer). Slept like a log and had a good breakfast the following morning.


Day 4

Tuesday 15th June
Reedsport, Oregon

Said cheerio to Forrester and went down to H.Q. for orientation. The magnitude of the task in a strange country has now hit me and I feel worried about tackling it on my own, but here goes. Left at 10.30 after a visit to Safeway to get some cereal and milk. Forrester gave me 2 bananas. The ride along Smith River was good almost like the area around Callander Perthshire. Then a long hard climb to Oxbow summit was followed by another. The free lemonade was delicious at Dean Warrenders’ along Wolf Creek Road. Reached Eugene at 5.30pm and bought a sleeping bag. Then on to Sheldon High to the Bike Inn and a meal at the Kings Table. (all you can eat for 2 dollars 99c). Bed at 10.30pm was communal, sleeping in my recently acquired bag on the school gymnasium floor in company with other riders (15). A mixed sex dormitory is one way of overcoming a lonely days’ riding!


Day 5

Wednesday 16th June
Euguene, Oregon

Set out early 8.40am to Redmond, lost my way and with luck got back on right road. Now getting to desert areas, pretty easy riding, lots of ground squirrels, sandy ground, but some vegetation. Real sunny day becoming very hot, going to have trouble with the sunburn. Now on to Prineville, rode about 5 miles for a picnic lunch. Climbing again then to Ochoco Pass 4,720ft very hot long straight climbs. Welcome cold water at the top and a fantastic descent into Mitchell, a one horse desert town, population 200. Stayed at the Oregon Hotel (listed as a BikeInn) very good a ‘proper bed’ and plenty to eat. Two groups here Cone Englishman from West London). Early bed after a whole afternoon climbing Ochoco Pass and getting very sunburnt. The Englishmans name is Eric Sharp from Hanwell, worked for the Financial Times as a proof reader for 16 years.


Day 6

Thursday 17th June
Sisters Oregon

The Cascade Mountains seen from Sisters, Oregon. Day 6 Bikecentennial 1976
The Cascade Mountains seen from Sisters, Oregon. Day 6

Set out early 8.40am to Redmond, lost my way and with luck got back on right road. Now getting to desert areas, pretty easy riding, lots of ground squirrels, sandy ground, but some vegetation. Real sunny day becoming very hot, going to have trouble with the sunburn. Now on to Prineville, rode about 5 miles for a picnic lunch. Climbing again then to Ochoco Pass 4,720ft very hot long straight climbs. Welcome cold water at the top and a fantastic descent into Mitchell, a one horse desert town, population 200. Stayed at the Oregon Hotel (listed as a BikeInn) very good a ‘proper bed’ and plenty to eat. Two groups here Cone Englishman from West London). Early bed after a whole afternoon climbing Ochoco Pass and getting very sunburnt. The Englishmans name is Eric Sharp from Hanwell, worked for the Financial Times as a proof reader for 16 years.


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