Sunday May 13
Ely, Nevada
A good night, sleeping in the open and I was up at 6 and away heading to Baker by 6.30. Arrived after 15 miles to find the only cafe was shut and no water, but at a garage I got one Coke, and one to go. Stripped off and made ready for the next 80 miles. This is the most demanding day yet, very hot and two 10 mile 7,000 feet climbs. Managed to find an old barn to shelter from the sun, and have a bite to eat and a Coke. Feel better now and got to the top without falling off! The lip salve and sun screen had to be used today.
Got to Milford at 2.30 and found food! Hot cakes and ice cream, and used the rest room for a wash, clean the breakfast mess kit,and fill my waterbottles before making off for Beaver City! I spoke to people outside the cafe who were there on a Mothers Day celebration. I’d been spotted, and they wanted to know who I was and offered me a bed for the night if I could make Cedar City 50 miles away where they lived. Can I make Cedar City? AND HOW!
Posted a card to Helen and made off in a cloud of dust at 4pm. Thirteen miles to Minersville and very hot, bought some milk and set off on a long hot climb for 10 miles. I should have adjusted my watch at the Utah border so I’ve lost an hour, but I should make it. Was met on the outskirts of town at 8.45 by Roger and Sandy (my hosts) who had come out to find me in case I was lost! After a wash and a meal we sat talking until way past midnight. Boy! do I need this bed!
Monday 14th May
Cedar City Utah
Up at 7 to poached egg and toast. Whilst talking to Sandy this morning as she cooked my breakfast I told her my name was Derek Jennings. She introduced herself as Sandy Gillies. I remembered that Roger had told me his name was Anderson, and thinking Sandy was his wife I told her I thought her married name was, Anderson, she responded by saying Roger and her are living in sin! WHOOPS! another bloomer I’ve made. They drove me to Zion Nat Park after giving me cans of V8 juice and Coke, and went to great lengths to make sure I went through Zion on my way to the Grand Canyon “Do not miss it, It is beautiful. We can’t direct you, other than by the freeway, so we’ll take you and the bike to the entrance in our car”.
The ride through the Park was magnificent and gave me the opportunity to sample the local hotcakes at the Visitor Centre. I spoke to two English girls from Swindon and Bungay. The road is undulating along the river with vast bluffs all around and the desire to cover the miles is gradually subsiding. Bike riders cannot use the long tunnels in this vast area and the idea of being transported through it is becoming a welcome thought! Never the the desire to ride the Grand Canyon and Death Valley is still with me at the moment. Spoke to two backpackers from Surrey and a camper driver from Willesden Green at the Park entrance.
The climb through the Park was fantastic, although a camera will not capture the majestic beauty of it all. Called at the Visitor Centre to arrange the escort to take me and the bike through the tunnel (at last somebody realises there are bicycles!). Very hot now and the ankles are beginning to swell, not painful, but I don’t know whether I should be getting worried. Access to get photo’s of the dramatic switchback roads are very limited. Waited at the tunnel entrance for a Ranger escort to arrive, he was without a bike carrier so he asked me to ride and then followed me through with his hazard lights flashing! I didn’t get on very fast after that, having to keep stopping to take pictures. It was just like riding around in a gigantic sandpit and hard going rising to the different levels. At the top it is real Canyon Land and doesn’t look as if the terrain changes for hundreds of miles in all directions.It is too difficult to comprehend what I am looking at.
oo difficult to comprehend what I am looking at. Pressed on to Kanab another 18 miles for an evening meal, I might look for a lift to get me to Jacob Lake tonight. Left at 5.45 and rode to Fredonia, posted Angelas card and headed out looking for a truck but passed a sign saying 29 miles to Jacob. Thought I might ride as I was going quite well and the sun should be going down soon.After about 6 miles it was tough going, heading towards a whacking great bluff. It climbed to 7,000 feet in 12 miles and at the top it was dark with still 9 miles to go. Made it O.K. at 9.45 through a forest road and into a campground area.
I’d promised myself a motel room for the night until I found out it was 18 dollars single so I’m afraid it’s going to be a night among the trees and stars. That climb really was a killer, it was fortunate I didn’t have to do it during the heat of the day, it could have been quite dangerous. I think the elevation is 7,925 feet and close to the North rim of The Canyon. No way to get to the South rim on the bike unless I route myself across the Colorado river by road followed by a few days riding. (I wanted to Trek across, but now find it is blocked by snow). So that’s the first week done and the schedule going O.K. although it really is not the right way to tackle it. The schedule does not allow time to relax and enjoy the journey. The constant concern is to get to the next overnite and no time consider any trouble that might occur or type of ground to be covered. Half the daily distance would be more than enough.
Tuesday 15th May
Jacob Lake Arizona
Up at 6 and hotcakes in the cafe, then off by 6.40. Quite cool but a nice forest ride all downhill. Clothes off at the bottom and then 30 miles more to Marble Canyon across a plateau, blue skies above with wispy cloud and warm,the whole area surrounded by red sandstone cliffs. Into Marble Canyon cafe for more hotcakes and a friendly bunch of people, (the waitress knew a trip planner of “Bikecentennial”). Forty one miles covered and now only 9.30. Stopped at every trading post after that. At Bitter Springs (2 Cokes) very hot, changed into a long shirt and the sun disappeared shortly after, as I made my way to. Cameron through the Painted Desert. The wind has been troublesome and it is now sandy desert all through the Navajo Reservations (Thought of my son Bob and wondered what he would think of it).
After the junction of the 169 the desert wind was incescent and right against me, with just a few drops of rain as a refresher. Boy! was I glad to see Cameron, 5pm and time for dinner. I had been riding in a singlet since lunch but changed into a T-shirt and made use of the rest room with a good wash down as I hadn’t washed for a few days. Left at 6, posted a card to Stan and decided to press on in the cool of the evening 54 miles to the South Rim but not sure about sleeping rough in the reservation. Saw my first two bike riders for a week at the South rim junction. Climbed for 14 miles until it almost gat dark and found a suitable spot at the side of the road,to sleep out of sight.I’m writing the last diary entry of the day as dusk falls so it might be unintelligible. I’m overlooking distant small canyons and, it’s a bit cloudy!
South Rim
Grand Canyon, Arizona
Morning now 5.30 and wind during the night was howling although I was sheltered. Beautiful sunrise over the canyons, just having a quick cheese sandwich before making the final ascent to the South Rim. Not so cold during the night only slept in shorts and T-shirt. Climbed another 10-12 miles to Desert View and was surprised to find I was overlooking the south rim of the canyon, and it now all became a reality. Truly undescribeable!, with a campground and trading post here as well! Got an omelette breakfast for a change, then took some slides and bought a few others.
After a clean up took an easier ride round the rim to Canyon Village. It was a nice forest ride with occasional views of the canyon landmarks at selected spots. Thunder in the distance and rain for about 30 minutes, made me put on some top clothes as I had stripped to the waist earlier. 25 miles along the rim at Grand Canyon Village it really is a International tourist trap but I suppose that is to be expected. Spoke to a U.S. Airforce chap who’d been stationed at Mildenhall and a Englishwoman who’d lived here in America for 30 years. It cost me 5 dollars for a salad, yoghurt, and coffee lunch. Didn’t get away until quite late after getting some Granola and cashing a cheque before heading down to Williams at about 1.40pm. It was 60 miles away, so thinking I’d have enough time I first went West to Hermitage Point to see the rest of the rim then back to Mather Point to soak up the last longing look at the Canyon. I just can’t believe it’s happening to me I really am thankful to just be here!
Off again with a undulating forest ride for 10 miles and then it turned into a slog into a head wind across the plains and no sun, even a little rain. Found it very hard going, I know what the trouble is, I couldn’t get my hotcakes at Desert View this morning. Finally made Williams at 6.30 and grabbed a welcome cafe meal, and was surprised to find that Williams is at 6,300 feet, so from 7,000 feet at the South Rim I haven’t dropped very much! I thought I would have a really dramatic descent. This town seems to be a sprawling mess and a junction for truckers and rail travellers. One road in and one road out. Left at dusk and found a spot in the forest about 4 miles out. I was on what I thought was a freeway so I had to get away from the road to stop the noise from the trucks being heard.
Thursday 17th May
Williams Arizona
I didn’t succeed they thundered through all night long, but I must have slept in snatches and was up and away by 6.20am. Started out on the suspect freeway, a bit cold, and 4 miles up the road suffered my first puncture, or really a blow out. Changed both tube and tyre and made Ash Fork by 7.30am and luckily finding hotcakes again! Now I’ll go like a bomb! to Seligman and Kingman. I’ve routed myself on to Highway 40, don’t know whether I’m supposed to be here but I’ve seen a state patrolman and he didn’t say a word. Resting under a tree only 50 miles from Kingman. I’ve done well, very hot, stripped to the waist and will get past Kingman tonight the Lord willing. Nearly made it now, but it sure was hot!, put my T-shirt back on and had to take shade under a flyover to have a sandwich lunch.
Arrived in Kingman at 3,30 and stocked up at the Safeway, ready for some late evening miles. Quite a large widespread town, the usual pattern. The approach was through the Cottonwood Mountains and Peacock Mountain, a nice ride considering it was on a main road. Spoke to an old chap outside the Safeway, he said “don’t go to Death Valley”. He’d never been and would never chance it in the summer – even in a car. I’ve still not posted Brenda’s card, where are these darned post boxes? On now a few more miles to Santa Claus, where there was a cafe that exploited the name. Nice friendly people and I was the only customer which encouraged them to offer me a Coke and ice cream on the house. Signed the guest book and promised I would let them know if I completed the journey. I’decided to leave for Dolan Springs as there was no chance of shelter here! Boy! is this my lucky day? just as I was wondering how I’d fare sleeping in this desert tonight.
I came across Dolan Springs, nothing here only a roadside bar Under a porch outside was a Davenport and the owner gave me permission to bed down on it for the night. Kay Barnes was her name. After she had shut the bar we sat talking outside until it got dark. She told me her life story, so I gave up writing my diary and listened. Eventually it was comfortable night on the Davenport and Kay promised me coffee in the morning before I leave.
Friday 18th May
Dolan Springs, Arizona
Up at 6 after a good sleep, but the traffic was disturbing again. A warm night and the sleeping bag was enough to keep me comfortable. As I wrote my diary. Kay turned up trumps with the coffee! Then it was farewell at 7.15. The going was fast and I made good time to Hoover Dam. A Briton in a camper stopped and spoke, he was a helicopter pilot and had been in America since 1961. The climb to Hoover was on a good road and not too difficult, and I was able to spend time sightseeing. Away by 11.30 and Boy! did I suffer!
Climbing to Boulder City was so hot, I ate there and rode the 20 miles to Las Vegas in the midday heat. It was 93 degrees and like an oven. The slight inclines really did take it out of me,and the pace at times was agonisingly slow. Rode the Las Vegas strip and took plenty of pictures. Crowds of people about all dressed (or undressed!) for the weather. I didn’t hang about too long, not sure whether a strangely garbed bike rider fitted the scene, and shot off on Spring Mountain Road where I made a stop for coffee and ice cream in a welcome air conditioned store. This place is larger than life, quite a day so far and still time for plenty more to happen. Well that last remark was an understatement. I asked directions in a bike shop in Spring Valley, was directed on Rainbow for 4 miles then right towards the mountains which loomed enormous! As I began to climb I grabbed at the chance of a truck lift from a guy going to the top. He gave me a lift to about 2 miles short of the top and I rode the rest but noticed the front tyre was soft as I started to descend, and it was dangerous. As I changed the tube a truck stopped to help and gave me a lift to Pahrump and I finished the repair there.
In the truck were two typical Ma and Pa westerners, she with her hair in a bun and tied in a bando, he the driver dressed in a check shirt and straw hat, both of them quite elderly. This Pahrump Valley is just like the Dettral Valley, a very long and flat desert, with lizards, and plagues of butterflies. At 8pm I found a clump of trees alongside a unoccupied trailer home just outside the town and bedded down there. Very hot, and aware that nobody was around I slept nude on top of my sleeping bag for a while although the grass was a bit prickly!
Saturday 19th May
Pahrump, Nevada
Up at dawn 5am and on the road to Shoshone, the cafe was closed so had a sandwich in a trailer park and on to Death Valley junction. Weather was warm but slightly cloudy for which I was thankful. Real desert looking now and Death Valley junction was abandoned, no grocery or cafe but I did manage to find a mail drop for Brendas card.
Was surprised to find that I was still at 2,000 feet and was told the next 10 miles climbed to 3,000 feet and then it was a 20 mile descent to below sea level at Furnace Creek. Boy! they aren’t kidding,the sun is up now and it’s like an oven and just like riding inside a volcanic crater. A welcome dinner at Furnace Creek Ranch and looked in at the Visitor Centre at about 1pm in the hope that if I spent time looking around and watching the orientation film the temperature might drop. Spoke to a number of people all commenting on me riding a bike!, and the Ranger said the temperature was 106 degrees in the shade and it might! only go down 6 or 7 degrees by 5pm.
It is 24 miles to Stovepipe Wells and I had already covered 85 miles today so decided that with a 4 hour stop here I could then try and get to Stovepipe tonight making it easier for the inevitable climb out of the valley early in the morning. There is only a grocery at Stovepipe which shuts at 7 o’clock. Set off at 3.40pm after speaking to Fred Harrison who was heading in the direction of Yosemite Nat Park as I was. He offered me a lift, it sounded attractive but I told him to look out for me in a few days time after I had ridden out of the valley. Very soon (within 4 miles) the only water I had was not going to last much longer. I’d ridden downhill to below sea level and then back up to sea level after 8-9 miles. It was not going to be long before I’d need more water and I wondered if it would be wiser to go back as my ankles were getting very swollen and tight. A driver stopped at about 12 miles and offered me a beer which I foolishly took. Drank a few swigs and put the rest in my water bottle. After getting through that in the next few miles my head began to swim, I thought I’d ruined my chance of ever riding to Stovepipe.
By now all ideas of riding out of the valley in the morning had been abandoned thinking it would be just suicidal! knowing it would rise to 6,000 feet. The idea of Freds lift was becoming more attractive I hope I can contact him. A little further approaching Scottys Castle junction I was sure I wouldn’t make it and was even thinking of asking a passing driver to give me a tow. Seven miles to go, it looked all down hill, but progress was painfully slow. Bottom gear and head hung low I stopped at the side of a solitary bush and drank a whole bottle of water. I must now be suffering from dehydration and fighting against it. Four miles further on and a car driver stopped and offered me water, he had stopped to take my picture while I was riding. I drank some and filled my bottle with the rest. Nearly made it now and I’ve been able to see Stovepipe for 1 ⁄2 hour, if I can just keep the pedals turning, no matter how slow, I will make it! I had enough water now to pour over my ankles which really were burning and tight. Crept into Stovepipe wondering whether I really had needed that Desert Experience. I recuperated by standing astride the bike in the road, my chest heaving and gasping for air, I eventually was able to dismount and totter with the bike to the shade of the grocery store porch. Sat down on the bench and still gasping tried to control my breathing. The people around here were very friendly and offered plenty of advice.
Eventually I took a hosepipe shower which was attached to a nearby tree. I Chatted to a local guy who just could not believe what he was seeing and it encouraged him to offer me a beer! and I got into the grocery store three quarters of an hour after I arrived. Just before they closed. A room for the night cost me 25 dollars but I would have paid the earth for one tonight!
The temperature is still 104 in the shade. I ate my own food in my room and haven’t even bothered to look outside, I think I’ll take a shower now at 9pm having sat in the nude since 7, I am so very thankful that I have been brought through yet another challenge. It could have been disastrous all through my own stubborness not to accept the obvious dangers that others have been telling me about. I’m glad I’ve had the opportunity and the sense to know when to stop. Everything I am carrying is hot to touch and the water from the taps must be about 60 degrees. Had a cereal supper and off to bed.
Sunday 20th May
Stovepipe Wells, Death Valley
Slept fitfully and up at 7 o’clock, glad to see the swollen ankles were a little better. Messed about during the morning, tidying up and mending a rear puncture, put my bike by the road in case Fred Anderson came by. (he might offer me that lift). Made my way down to the store at 11 and spoke to the cashier who told me about the bike race that started from here last weekend to Lone Pine. It started at 6.30am and the winners time was 41 ⁄2 hours, incredible! The heat and altitude must have been impossible, I’d heard about it in Fallon from the VW driver whose son was competing and hoped to win (he came second last year).
It seems as through this place is going to close for the summer, there’s just not enough business to keep it going. Only a few folks here today Charlie (Chuck) and Marci from Pennsylvania, on holiday alone for the first time for ten years, they had two kiddies 10 and 6 years who were being cared for back in San Francisco. Another was a couple from California Mike and Paula holidaying in a jeep. Then there was Richard and Bernie from Alabama who staffed the place. I lazed around outside the store for the rest of the day but wasn’t too worried if Fred didn’t show because Chuck had already offered me a lift back to San Francisco on Monday.
Wrote Helen during the morning but heaven knows when I’ll be able to post it? I was now feeling quite bad again by about 12 midday ,and the ankles started to swell and hurt and the temperature was now 100 degrees and making breathing difficult (taking in air did not seem to relieve the discomfort). I do hope this does not do irreparable damage. Went with the crowd back to Furnace Creek in the evening for a meal and even the van ride was unbearable, I was glad to get into an air conditioned place, the coolest I’d been for the whole day. Felt better on the way back after helping to haul out a VW that was stuck in a spring water stream. It’s unbelievable that natural water should exist on this seering desert floor. I’m really glad I stayed, it has made the trip a living experience that does not present itself to even the adventurous tourist and as it said in the R.D book, “you have to be adventurous to do it, even in a airconditioned car”. Sat on the motel porch destroying a bottle of Taquilla and chatting with Chuck and Marci. Richard the caretaker joined us and he got more and more drunk, (he was leaving for Yellowstone that night). I mentioned I was going to sleep on the store porch (I couldn’t afford another $25) and he wouldn’t hear of it! and kindly opened up a free motel room with his pass key for me before he left. I gave him a 5 dollar bill, it was a good investment I thought. Chuck and Marci suggested I put cold ice packs on my ankles, so I sat with my feet up on the porch wall wrapped in an iced an hour or so while we were chatting, it felt a little better.
Boy! this is all going to seem like a nightmare when I’m back in the comfort of my own home. I finally said goodnight to Rich and into my room to write my,diary and bed by 11.30. What a day!, I feel just like I did after my first trip to Callander in Scotland for Hogmany many years ago. I integrated into the community then! and I certainly have done the same here!