Derek Jennings
A Bicycle Makes a Fine Desert Camel

A diary of a 15 day journey by bicycle across the Nevada Desert and Death Valley

Monday 21st May
Death Valley

Good nights sleep. Up at 7am and away in Chuck and Marci’s van by 8.15. What a stroke of luck I met them, Fred Anderson never did put in an appearance. After climbing out of Death Valley we spent all morning making our way to Bakersfield with one or two stops at Skidoo ghost town – Miracle Springs – and a salt lake bed.Then after posting Helens letter we really got going through the southern end of Sequoia Park to Bakersfield (Chuck has told me that Richard gave my 5 dollar bill to him last night and asked him to give it back to me today!) What a fantastic guy he was! We then took Route 5 to San Francisco which was undramatic, fairly flat farming country, but still looking very dry and barren, quite a lot of artificial irrigation needed.

Arrived at the junction of R152 at 8.40 and Chuck dropped me about 2 miles along it at a KOA campground. I now wanted to ride to Frisco on my own leaving Chuck and Marci to drive there on their own along the Freeway. You wouldn’t believe the mess I got in during the next 1 ⁄2 hour, it was now dark and the entrance to the campground was 1 ⁄2 mile along the road to the next slip. I rode on and was stopped at the exit by the highway patrol for having no lights. Talked my way out of that and called at a market for milk and headed for the back road into the camp which in the dark turned out to be across a ploughed field! After struggling through that, for 15 minutes I found that a road 30 yards away that I’d been running parallel with, went right by the entrance. I couldn’t believe I’d chosen a ploughed field instead of the road! I now had shoes full of dry earth and was talking to myself for being so stupid! Cleaned myself up in the washroom and bedded down on the grass beside a fence, under a tree sheltering from the wind.

Tuesday 22nd May
Nr Santa Cruz, California

Up at 6am and away by 7 onto what looked like a Freeway. Quite a hard breezy ride through hilly parched grassy terrain to the Pacheco Pass at 13,000 feet where the highway changed to a single lane. It almost looked like England,with green trees and rolling hills. Stopped at Casa de Fruta at 9.15 for hotcakes and away by 10, for a nice steady ride into Gilroy with a stop at a fruit stall. Then on through the vineyards to Watsonville where an enquiry put me on a road to Freedom and Santa Cruz without having to use the freeway. Lunched alongside Route 1 and poodled into Santa Cruz, quite relaxed, now as the pressure is finally off. Got in about 3 o’clock and wandered around the precinct of what looks to be quite a prosperous town. Nice shops, a jazz group playing in a outside garden coffee shop and lots of young people about, mainly students and freak outs but nevertheless a delightful atmosphere. Was shown the way out to Route l by a self confessed dope pedlar? and called at a grocery for a choc ice and a bike shop for wheel reflectors to take home for Helen before heading out at 4.15pm to Davenport along the coast road against a strong head wind. Reached there by 5 but I decided to press on a bit further although the sign to the next town said 25 miles. I expected the coast road to have a eating place somewhere, – but there was NOTHING!!

Left the coast road into Pescadero for a meal and a bed for the night. Got the meal, (good cafe and service) then rode around looking for a resting place. Checking out a motel, a fairground and an empty house I wasn’t satisfied with any of them and went back to the main road to try the beach for the night. No luck!, much too windy, and I finally found some disused farm buildings just off the road and even an old mattress. Made myself comfortable and so to bed!

Wednesday 23rd May
Pescadero California

Up at 6.30am, breakfast, and down to card and diary writing before setting off. It’s now very misty and quite chilly, hope it soon lifts. It is l9 miles to Half Moon Bay and a typical coast road. Up and down into the bays with occasional clifftop rides. Took a look at the State Beach with a 1 mile detour looking for somewhere to eat, UNLUCKY! and pushed on to El Granada a boat marina and harbour at the end of the bay. Posted cards to Charlie and Martin. Found a hot cake shop at last! on the harbour front. Still overcast and not too warm so I guess I’ll make my way to San Bruno and back to Jimmy’s place right back where I started from two weeks ago. Shame! I could have spent a nice relaxing few hours by the sea. Found another post office at Moss Beach and got the money orders off to pay for maps and accessories I’d bought (Goucha – 6 dollars and Hartley Alley – 4 dollars).

Left the coast and climbed up and over the hill then down into San Bruno which was bathed in sunshine. Overshot the town but found my way eventually by getting a free County map at a garage. Lunched at the International Pancake House but it wasn’t pancakes I chose. It was spaghetti would you believe! So here we are, the bike riding part of the trip over. I expect when I come to look at it in retrospect it has been quite a trip, a vast variety of events and experiences,any one of which would gladden the hearts of most people. And how fortunate I’ve been, many times I could have been the victim of a threat, either from nature or human sources and I have been delivered from them all Thank God! I hope Helen has been as safe while I’ve been away. Found Jimmys’ place and Grandpa was home although Jimmy wasn’t so I was able to strip the bike down and pack it away, then dine with the family when Jimmy got home. Finished the day with another luxury! a good bath and a clean-up before climbing into a comfortable bed.

Thursday 24th May
San Francisco

Up at 7 and into the city in Jimmys car for a self guided city tour whilst he was at work. Saw a nasty bike accident just as I got out of the car, glad I was on foot! Looks as if the weather could be good, I have already seen examples of the renowned San Francisco fog both yesterday and early today but now with a nice bright start I set out walking to the centre after an A & W food breakfast. The tour began with a call at the visitor center, then a walk up Powell, through Chinatown, down to Fishermans Wharf, where I bought a few souvenirs (didn’t get on with that very well). Round to the marina for a picture of the Golden Gate, back to Hyde and on the cable car back to Powell and Market. Down at the marina the place was alive with joggers. Everywhere there were the shorts and vest clad runners among all the city bustle. You certainly see the oddest sights here! the all black roller skater! the black Beefeater flunky outside the Sir Francis Drake hotel, and a mime clown performing in the street. What was missing was the great influx of foreign tourists like you get in London.

Got back to Jimmys’ car exhausted! and was glad to sit in the sun at Van Ness and Market and wait for him whilst writing my diary. Back home it was a special barbeque steak dinner with wine and TEA! to follow, the first one for over two weeks! I’m sure it was a meal put on especially for me, and was delicious! After dinner we went up to the stable to see his daughter Chrissys mustang and Jimmy took me to see the house he DIDN’T buy, where there was a magnificent view over the city, and the bay by night, a unique place to spend the leisure hours. TV that night was the Alan King show (quite funny) and down on the sofa for the last nights sleep on this trip.

Friday May 25th
San Francisco

Up at 6.35am and having said my goodbyes to all the family. Jimmy run me to the airport, after getting in line for gas! It was hard to express how they had made my arrival and departure so free from problems by their kindness and acceptance of a virtual stranger. Anyway I tried and I hope I expressed my gratitude adequately, they really were a nice couple.I promised to get Jimmy the information of the Trust House Forte motels he wanted and mail it to him on Friday (the HQ is in Holborn, and it’s the least I can do). At the airport I made a call to Helen at 6.20 British time (10.20am USA time) for 4 dollars 75c (there was a 1 dollar 33c excess which they are going to bill me for). Phoned and spoke to my son Bob and although I was glad to let someone know I was OK, I was so disappointed that Helen wasn’t in. Still, won’t be long now!!

Got my seat by the window before take off at 12.15. Good views of the San Mateo and Bay Bridges, really beautiful up here again, a patchwork of multicoloured shapes with the snowy peaks of the Cascades and the Sierras’ to the east. Passed between Shasta Lake and Lassen volcano, taking a picture of Mt Shasta, when the pilot tipped the wing to let photographers get their pictures, at 14,162 feet. Crater lake came next, a volcano that had the 5,000 feet rim blown away and the crater filled with water forming the lake. Lava and ash had been found 70 miles away! The Three Sisters in the Bute area and Mt Jefferson at 10,000 feet all appeared next. To the east, Mt Hood and over the Columbia river into Washington State passing Portland and Astoria was Mt St Helen and Mt Adams 12,000 feet. All these areas the pilot explained as he rerouted us because of the exceptionally good weather and for the interest of passengers. He was an exceptionally good guide as well as pilot with all sorts of geographical info to tell as he flew his Boeing 727 at 35,000 feet to Vancouver. It was Mt Radio next at 14,000 feet, then right over the top of Washington city (surrounded by water again).

Now on to Seattle and Mt. Baker 10,000 feet.then Vancouver came quickly after a lunch of chicken and ham salad, pear Helene and coffee. Two Japanese people sat next to me throughout the journey so the language barrier meant I could concentrate on writing this descriptive diary entry at this point! A smooth touch down in Vancouver and through the normal formalities, I made contact with Can Pacific airline who told me I could store the bike as left luggage at my own risk, in or outside the baggage office. (I shall know if that’s wise when I get back here on Sunday)! Phoned a youth hostel and caught the bus, a 1 hour journey through downtown Vancouver to the other side of the city to get there just after the hostel opened. A wash and a hostel meal got me talking to a young French Canadian from Montreal (John) who later gave me a lift to the Safeway and after taking him for a hotcake supper. He told me a sad story. He was married with a child and his wife had left him, so he packed his bag, came here, rented an old car at 7 dollars 95c a day and was looking for a job! Back to the hostel and a lone stroll down to Jericho beach as the fine weather had lasted right through to the evening. Beautiful beach with logs in rows along it, a marina and fine views of downtown, Vancouver and North Vancouver across English Bay with Mt. Seymour and Grouse Mt. in the background.

Fine place to write the diary before retiring. I was a little bit apprehensive about ever being able to explore Vancouver whilst waiting for the ongoing flight home tomorrow assuming I would not be able to store the bike at the airport. I’m glad that’s turned out OK. Still sore about not being able to speak to Helen. I turned in and got a reasonable nights sleep, a bit warm and not a very comfortable bunk.

Sat 26th May
British Columbia

Up at 7.30am, I should think that’s the latest yet! A cereal breakfast, followed by my duty to empty 3 trash bins! and I set out at 9.30 to do Vancouver! On the way to the bus I picked up a dollar bill! in the street, could this be my lucky day? This tourist lark is blooming hard work! I got back to the hostel 12 hours later shattered!! having taken in Harbour Centre and a “Vancouver” orientation film, a walk down Georgia to Stanley Park, where I saw 200 totem poles and watched Porthcawl Rugby f.c. play. Back on Pender to I spent some time trying to find something nice for Helen and failed, I was disappointed about that (perhaps the airport will produce something). Back on the bus the dark mountains showed up the brilliant white ski area of Grouse mountain. The hostel is a little strange, the inmates seem to be backpackers and hitch hikers (long haired and bearded most of them). The members kitchen is pitiful, no utensils and the minimum of cooking equipment (1 toaster and a double cooking ring), the meals are on a cafeteria basis 2 dollars 50c for dinner (main course and coffee). Quite a big proportion of the hostellers are French and I think very few are engaged in outdoor pursuits.

So what do I think of Vancouver? Yes a wonderful place, one of the attractions apart from it’s setting is the variety of places surrounding it for outdoor recreation. These seaplanes look unique floating by between sea and mountains like butterflies. So roll on tomorrow. Can’t wait to get on that plane and on the way home to Helen and the family, now the bike riding’s done this sightseeing bit is an anticlimax, and although I realise I should be using the opportunity to the full I can’t help feeling it is delaying a much anticipated homecoming. Found a bookshop in the city that stocked all the back numbers of “Cycling” magazine back to the middle of March, I also managed to pick up a RV camper magazine for a workmate.

Sunday 27th May
Vancouver British Columbia

Woke up to yet another dull Vancouver morning,each one so far has become bright later, so I suppose this one could too! Not sure how to use the time today, before flying home at 5.25 this evening. Got away from the hostel at 9.30 after sweeping the dormitory. Raining now, got the bus to Gastown and a roam through the shops and still didn’t find anything thrilling for Helen. Took a hotcake brunch and strolled back to Granville and got the bus out to the airport around 12.30. Spoke to a couple on the bus, the man was 70 and had left Preston when he was 10, he reckoned Vancouver was the best place in the world! and I was inclined to agree with him. They were thrilled to hear about my journey! The bus driver let me off at the terminal building door which they said was a favour because I was a visitor. At Can Pacific baggage office I found the bike intact, so in the attempt to see Vancouver without it, I’d apparently made the right decision after all!!

Carried out the normal check- in procedures for take off at 5.25 to sunny skies and clear mountains to the North, haven’t found out what the large golf ball object is at the side of the runway. Shortly after take off we ascended into cloud and as I suspected the window seat view was obscured by a “perishing” great wing so I’m not going to see very much anyway. Lunch was a steak, salad, sweet, cheese and biscuits, wine and a liqueur (brandy) to finish. The odd break in the cloud didn’t reveal very much. It sure is a crazy world up here, everyone is much more interested in watching the movie while we have flown out of the sunset into the sunrise and it hasn’t even got dark! I suppose that explains why the North Pole is called “The Land Of The Midnight Sun” and you really do feel “On Top Of The World” up here at this time of the day.

Time dragged a bit but it’s morning now and the refreshment was orange juice, coffee,and danish pastry (old piggy had two lots!) Just doing the last hour into Manchester now so it’s getting quite exciting, not long to go for one of lifes little pleasures – the homecoming. I wonder how Helens slimming programme has been going? I might get a nice surprise. Touched down at Manchester at 9.40am and spent a boring hour in my seat just waiting to take off again for Gatwick then HOME AT LAST Whoopee!!!!!!!