Derek Jennings
Feeling On Top Of The World

Experience an account of 50 days on a bicycle over the Andes from Lima to Rio de Janeiro

Monday 12th October
Mountain Top Resthouse?

Rose to a cloudy morning, and Tea (mate) in the rest house across the road then off to Abancay. The road descended all morning, first in cloud and mist which cleared about 10 o’clock and turned warm, but the road deteriorated to loose rocky gravel. The views were magnificent to the valley below but couldn’t appreciate them, for to take your eyes off the road would be disastrous. All I could do now and again was to stop and admire. We reached the river at 12 and stopped to eat our last food, it was 13km to Abancay all up hill and on the same sort of road.

We reached Abancay absolutely shattered and fell into the nearest restaurant! Not a Cola shop had we passed all day! So first a Cola then a big bowl of soup followed by arroz, choufa con papas and two coffees which certainly revived us, but I ached in every bone of my body and very very tired! Once again I noticed that all the restaurants display a picture of Christ and also the Last Supper, some decorated with garlands around the frame. Found the Grand Hotel and now had time to re-establish ourselves. A doucha, clean the bikes, finish off Helen’s card and post it. Surprising what a couple of hours of basic revival care does for you, and it is only in a town like this that it is available, and they only come every three or four days.

We went for a stroll in the evening and bought provisions for tomorrow, oranges, apples, bread, tin of pilchards and chocolate, drinking the odd soda pop and cafe con leche helped as we searched. Seems as though we have got a bit of climbing to do tomorrow to get out of this place. I’m just dreading a repeat of todays roads which will be absolutely agonising. We went out in the evening for a “pollo” supper (chicken) and were joined by two American girls trucking to Cuzco, they were from Oregon and Milwaukee, and were intending to teach English.

Tuesday 13th October
Abancay

Today started with a breakfast of egg rolls and cafe con leche before leaving on a stiff climb out of the town and then a climb all morning to 4,000m. Saw the Americans waiting for their truck. The summit was once again a reward, with some splendid snow capped peaks in glorious sunshine. The descent was rocky and after a picnic lunch and crushed papaya a little later on, we rode all afternoon to a restaurant. At about 4.30.we left to do another hours riding until it eventually got dark and we’re amongst storms again. Had to hastily find a camp spot, which wasn’t easy because everywhere was so rocky and steep. Found a spot and erected the tent in the dark just as the rain came.

I had to pump my tyre up 3 times today, I will have to fit a new tube tomorrow before I start. So it was an early night after a bite to eat, but I must admit I do not seem to get a nights sleep either camping or in a hotel, my mind is in a complete turmoil and I am always aware of outside noises all night, be it voices, trucks, cockerels, footsteps and also the uncomfortable beds, hard floors, or fields.

Wednesday 14th October
Mountain Camp Spot. No idea where!

Up at 6 only to find our camp spot was full of cactus spikes. Martin and I had flat tyres both back and front, so repairs turned out to be a major job. We had to take our bikes to the road to repair for fear of another puncture. Were away by 8 and descended to the river for our first Cola. We had the night before filled our bottles from a mountain stream which we have now drunk! (a bit risky, lets hope for the best!).

Very hot this morning and the rise from the river was exhausting, stopped a number of times on the way to lunch at Limatambo, once to drench ourselves in a stream, another for a Cola. On the way we passed a number of survey gangs who assured us that this section of road to Cuzco would be paved by 1982 (sounds like a Peruvian fairy story!). I dreaded starting again, it was very hot and I knew there was a lot of climbing to do that afternoon on a bad rocky road that rose straight out of the valley. The next few miles exhausted me and we stopped again for a Cola.

On again and as we rose the road switchbacked which made the climbing easier and near the top the road improved. Only about 75km from Cuzco now and the usual afternoon thunderstorm came, we had to shelter for a while (a beautiful rainbow!) 5.30 now and on again but I punctured so we pitched camp for the night in a small community village almost near the top. We had an audience watch us all the time, until we crept into our tent.

What a night! After eating I lay and was troubled by incessant, agonising itching, all over my body, it continued all night and is still there this morning. The dogs were worse here, barking continuously well into the early hours of the morning, sometimes right outside the tent! So It’s off to Cuzco now and that promises to be a little easier?

Thursday 15th October
Another Mountain Top Camp Spot.
Still no idea where?

Rose at 6 to blue sunny skies later. Gave the rear tyre some more air after repairing the puncture overnight, and the patch blew so it was a repairing job before we could set off. Didn’t get away until 8 and climbed a few kilometres then descended through the valley on a pretty good dry dirt road. We were now running short of money, in fact we did not have enough to buy a proper meal. so it was necessary to get to Cuzco before the bank closed. A stop for candy and a pop and then one at Anta for bananas and bread, 11.30 and 26km to go.

Off we set, the last 12km was paved and climbed but we didn’t make the bank, which closed at midday I believe. Martin has some Dollars, so we have to wait until the money exchange opens at 4. Here we are then a couple of broke, homeless, dirty bike riders sitting in the plaza, me mending punctures and Martin writing his diary, all to the accompaniment of a local band playing outside a church. This is a bustling busy town, quite a few young people about, fairly well dressed (a bit hippy!) and lots of visitors but not many Europeans.

This apparently is one of the noted thieving towns so we’ve got our eyes all about us, every one we speak to is warning us about it. Got my travellers cheque changed without too much trouble, 454 soles per dollar. (having to be cautious about security!) Booked in at the hotel La Casona (hot water and shower!) so I was able to do a little washing for the first time, but I haven’t had a shave since I started! We have an upstairs balcony room overlooking an inner courtyard, very quaint, and old. The evening stroll round the plaza was entertaining, after dark the whole place became alive. Every shop was open and the streets were crowded with market traders sitting at the roadside. Plenty of souvenirs to buy here but I’m obviously not wise enough to know what is genuine, so it’s a bit difficult! All this is accompanied by plenty of noise, marching bands and music from shops and restaurants. There are more Europeans to be seen now.

We stocked up on food for tomorrows trip to Machu-Picchu, and met the two Americans and went to Vics’ American Bar then off to bed for it’s an early rise (4.30) tomorrow to catch the Indian train to Machu – Picchu at 5.30. (no other way to get there) not even by bike!!

Friday 16th October
Cuzco. Happy Birthday HELEN!!

It was a job getting out of the hotel, we got the proprietor out of bed at 5 to unlock the place for us (he was not amused!) The station was bustling. On the train it was still dark and in getting a seat I was jostled by two women shouting that the seats were numbered and reserved and before you could say “knife” my pocket wallet had gone. And so had the Women!! In it was 3,000 soles (£18) but more worrying, so was my American Express card. The journey to Machu Picchu was now ruined!, and the worry was, how would I cancel my card. Fortunately the rest of my money was in my money belt (I wish my wallet had been there as well!) Martins’ was in the shoe he was wearing.

The train journey was incredible both inside and out.The selling of goods inside the train was amazing, coffee from enamel kettles wrapped in dirty cloths. Cheese, nuts, cakes, sweets and all sorts of root vegetables.could be bought, along with small pieces of roast pork wrapped in grubby scraps of paper! It seemed as if weekly shopping was done on the train. Martin and I declined the food and drink we sadly needed! (not safe!) Opposite us sat a Peruvian man and wife with two young children about 2 and 4 years. Their hygiene and cleanliness left a lot to be desired and although we were now used to it, it didn’t improve our journey. Outside, the train went straight into the mountains, snow capped at times and following a fast flowing river. At each station another lot of vendors got on. The 5 mile bus ride at the end was fantastic and hairaising.

The ruins themselves set in such an inaccessible place were a surprise. The mountainsides were subtropical from top to bottom and when we arrived it was very very hot. A short rain shower at lunchtime cooled things off before we caught the train back at 4pm and said goodbye to the reputed 8th Wonder of the World. To get there by train cost 1,300 soles 2,000 soles to get in, and l,000 soles return. The return by train was eventful, after buying a 1st class ticket we didn’t even get a seat, it was very crowded and then after only l mile somebody fell under the train at a station and was instantly killed. That delayed us about an hour and in all the journey took 5 hours from 4-9.30 by which time I was shattered with badly swollen ankles and still feeling pretty miserable about the wallet.

It was dark for the last three hours and towards the end the civil guard searched the train for Coca leaves and took a native woman from our carriage (what a commotion!) the passengers were both tourists and natives. Back in time to snatch a much needed meal and bed, Martin noticed that his ankles were also swollen. So ended a very eventful day, can’t say that I thoroughly enjoyed it although the ruins were a unique sight and it was good of Martin to spend the time and effort to come with me (he has been here before). I appreciated that.

Saturday 17th October
Cuzco

I had my best nights sleep of the trip, undisturbed and the bite irritation which had troubled me for 3 nights wasn’t too bad and the ankles were a little better. Took my malaria tablet, which I forgot yesterday. Strolled around Cuzco in the morning taking a few pictures then back at the hotel noticed my rear tyre had a cut so changed that, then that patch blew again so I had to fit another tube. Didn’t leave the hotel until 10 then after cafe con leche in the plaza and posting a few cards I found the American Express office and reported my loss. They also sent me to the tourism police to report the theft.

Eventually got away at 12 after arranging to pick up a duplicate credit card in Rio when I get there! (Nov 25th). Urcos was now 40km away on paved roads through a valley with a number of villages and alongside those endless Mountains! Lunch of chicken soup in Urcos where Martin had to contest the price with the woman, who was undecided on how much to charge us.?

It is quite common in shops and restaurants that there is a problem reckoning up the items and nearly always it is written down on odd scraps of paper and then when you pay nobody has got change even for the smallest amounts! The afternoon continued on a gravel road and ran through the mountains alongside the river. No place to find a drink, but quite a few odd run down villages about. Did pull into one however for a pop and around the corner in the plaza the traders from whom we bought bread were extremely pleasant and wanted us to sleep there the night, but we pushed on for another hour or two.

Met an Australian guy today named Russ Parkes who had started from Lima when we did and was making his way back to Aussie via Mexico. Camped beside a river on a nice grassy spot and it rained what seemed to be all night! I had incidently, in Cuzco a few days ago managed to wash my shorts and Adidas T shirt which I had worn for 3 weeks (there was hot water). The result was amazing! the colour of the water was a muddy red. I still haven’t tried a shave yet! We’d ridden another 40km this afternoon so after a late start we hadn’t done too bad!!

 

Sunday 18th October
Riverside camp spot

Martin had to repair his rear pannier bag clip and we were off by 8 along a sticky and bumpy road caused by the overnight rain, it was quite fresh and overcast. Riding into San Pedro a poster told us they were playing soccer in the 2nd round of the Peru cup at 1.30 today. We could not stop as we hoped to get much further today The ride along ‘washboard’ roads (as Martin called them) passed through many villages with interesting events going on such as, open markets and a music festival, all I recorded on film.

Reached Sicuani at 1.30 for lunch, a fair sized town, plenty of activity. Very warm now, took a few pictures, stocked up on provisions and set off at 3 to Marangani, the soccer team playing San Pedro today came from there, also seen was a local bull ring. We filled our bottles for the nights camp and set off. The mountains were covered with storm clouds and before we found a suitable pitch the rain started.

We hastily got the tent set up but the rain turned to hail and snow! It was bitterly cold and by the time we were in the tent with the baggage it was practically as much as I could stand! Cold soaking wet clothes and inside the tent it was also wet. On with more clothes, into the sleeping bag and supper. Surprisingly, although the sleeping bag got wet and all the clothes I had on were wet, I survived all night, although did not get too much sleep. We seemed to have pitched the tent on rather soggy ground and in a short while it became like a miniature pond underneath. Ah well! never mind, perhaps tomorrow will bring a better day? I didn’t have any trouble with the itching though, I’d solved it the previous night by only using a sheet sleeping bag to keep cool. I wasn’t likely to have a problem keeping cool tonight!!

Monday 19th October
Pass of La Raya

Awoke at 6, still very damp but warm and luckily there is a trace of sun so it’s a case of trying to dry out and get ourselves ready and comfortable enough to start the days journey, We spread our clothes and bags etc over shrubs to dry. I can’t describe how thankful I was that we should have the sun to enable us to do it. Last night by the way the barking dogs were a nuisance again for a long time. It doesn’t matter how remote you are, you just cannot get away from them!

We set off at 10, the road was not as bad as I expected after all that overnight rain and it rose from 3,600m to 4,300m at the summit of the pass of La Raya where there was only a railroad station. The descent was rocky in places, 30km down to Santa Rosa, the last 8km undulating and no place to refresh ourselves or eat. We were lucky to find somewhere by 2 o’clock.

Plenty of shops but no restaurants. This place has got lumps of raw meat hanging up on an outside wall in a yard, any wonder we didn’t choose anything on the menu that included meat!!

It was 42km to Ayaviri across a flat plateau which surprisingly we made just before dark. Washboard roads again and also a sort of dry ash about 2 inches thick, very hard to ride through and the bumps were painful. But there were advantages, the wind was behind us and it was flat. A nice cafe con leche in a cafe and then we pitched camp just outside the town by the river, it was dark by now. It appears that the bridge we have to cross to Juliaca has collapsed and there is a temporary catwalk underneath that pedestrians use, which we will have to negotiate in the morning. Looks a bit dodgy to me!!