Derek Jennings
Feeling On Top Of The World

Experience an account of 50 days on a bicycle over the Andes from Lima to Rio de Janeiro

Tuesday 20th October
Ayaviri

It is now 31 ⁄2 weeks since we started and there are one or two observations I ought to make now while they are still fresh in my mind. Firstly – although this was meant to be a challenge, I had no idea at the outset how difficult it would be and the limits I was subjecting my body to, and at my age I was stupid to make myself do this. The heat, the extreme physical and body ailments, bites, diarrhoea, swollen ankles were all things that were likely to have a lasting effect. There have been other dangers that fortunately I have managed to escape. It has been only with Martins help that I have managed to keep going, he does all the shopping and route finding, conversing, and enquiring generally, which relieves me of most of that concern. I have so far been very lucky, I hope that this will satisfy my ego and teach me that challenges are all very well but they take their toll and I don’t think I need to take those risks any more!!

Todays ride was across the high altiplano along thick ash and washboard roads, a dry warm day but very uncomfortable, hard difficult riding, in fact bloody terrible!! We passed through only two villages, had a Cola in the first, then a picnic lunch sitting in the grocers shop in the second, there was nowhere else to eat. The afternoon was interesting, we were only 20km or so from Juliaca and we rode most of it on a track about the width of a car tyre on the top of a railway banking with a couple of foot drop on one side. Had to concentrate, but we got on much quicker than on the road.

We entered Juliaca at 4.15 and what a shock! It looked as if it had just experienced a bombing raid. Half the buildings were incomplete, there was masses of rubble everywhere, the roads were paved but there were huge trenches across the road and we had to clamber over heaps of earth to get by. But what was incredible was that in amongst it all there was a huge street market going on and quite a lot of large well stocked shops trading. The railroad area was an utter mess! with rubble and market traders sitting in amongst it all. A meal in the town before heading out to find a camp spot was abandoned, we found a hotel for the night instead which was very welcome, I was extremely dirty not having washed since Cuzco.

We went out from the hotel for a coffee, Martin bought himself a Llama wool jumper and hat, in fact he got two hats for 1,100 soles,- one for me. Later in the Pasterleria we bought a cake to eat with our coffee and while paying for it Martin had 5,000 soles lifted from his back pocket. It happened in a flash!, you just don’t stand a chance! I have just caught up on my mailing and written 8 cards ready for posting tomorrow. So it’s out again for a nightcap and tomorrow it’s off to Puno on a paved road and nearing the Bolivian border. It was very cold here in Juliaca which is what everyone we spoke to said it would be, must be about 3,800m here.

Wednesday 21st October
Juliaca

Not a wink of sleep as the janitor in the next room was answering the door to callers all night, then at 5am he turned his radio on so I gave up completely! and we were up and away by 7.15. It was a paved road along another flat altiplano all the way to Puno, with a final climb and descent into the town. Had breakfast there and whilst exploring the lakeside and cathedral took a few pictures. Left at 11.15 and the first 8km or so out of the town (still paved) was alongside the lake which was much more scenic than it was from the town shore. It had been cold but was sunny and warm now.

The next stage was another altiplano alongside the lake passing places where the reed boat builders of Lake Titicaca were practicing the art used by Thor Hyerdahl for his expedition boat RAH Two. It was 22km to Ilave and we stopped for a banana and put on a jersey. It gets chilly at these altitudes. We had been at 4,000m for a day or two. Rode on to Juli, another 23km, and met the lake again, stocked up on provisions for a nights camp and after a stiff climb out of the town were followed by a crowd of homegoing schoolchildren, before descending to a lakeside camp spot. (saw flamingos by the lake this afternoon.) It was still daylight and the first time we’d managed to be in the tent before dark. Desaguadero the border town is now on the signposts, so tomorrow we should be in Bolivia, a great relief to know the challenge is almost conquered.

Thursday 22nd October
Lake Titicaca

We had ridden 120km yesterday and I wondered how long the paved road would last, it had been the greatest days distance of the whole trip so far. Rode along a newly paved section beside the lake, a vast expanse with the mountains in the distance like rows of tiny triangles and the clouds hanging over them, it was quite cold but a town came up in 15km – Pomata. The pave ended and we had to show passports at a military post to an officer wearing a ceremonial sword.

A very steep climb took us alongside a really old and unique church.that looked as if it belonged in the film “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Took the usual pictures and in Pomata the breakfast was welcome. Noticed that the Yo-Yo craze, a feature of the journey so far, has been replaced by Kites. We picked up the pave as we descended out of the town and left the lake through undulating country. Was caught in a hailstorm through a small pass and sought shelter, but eventually we had to decide to ride on in the hope we rode out of it because it seemed to be hanging over the pass. It worked OK and we gradually rode into sun, but also on to gravel and rock road again for 20km into Desaguedero.

We rode to the border together, arms across each others shoulders, quite an emotional moment! It was now lunchtime so we had our last Peruvian meal before making the crossing into Bolivia. Fortunately we saw tourists coming across the bridge so instead of Martin and I taking each others picture of triumph! at the border they took ours, (both of us together!!) Lunched on the Peruvian side and stocked up on food and set out to cross. The exit was simple, just showed our passport then over the bridge to Bolivia where we were asked for our passport again by the Military who sent us next door to the civil office who said we needed an exit stamp in our passport from Peru. So back we went to the Immigration office in Desaguedero and they removed the exit visa and gave us the stamp, then back across the border to the civil office again, not before I had shown my passport to the civil guard at the Peruvian barrier (Martin got through without showing his). In the civil office there was no one about so I popped outside to take a picture, The Military next door (one was standing outside) called me over and showed me inside the office, telling me “taking photographs of military objects was prohibited” and took my camera. He popped it in a draw and said it would be confiscated, I tried to explain that removal of the film would be good enough which with my poor Spanish was difficult. After some considerable time I convinced him that I had not pressed the shutter and to my surprise! he gave me the camera back complete with film!, and told me to go. Martin by now had got the passports stamped, so we fled into Bolivia as quick as we could.

One km from the border another control post wanted us to produce a document IN TRIPLICATE of proof of ownership of our bicycles, Martin had it written in his passport, so we escaped! We rode until dusk and reached a Military town where the plaza exits were covered by the military and we were shown to an office for passport examination. It looked just like a revolutionary set up. Just a stone walled room with a table, chair and lantern and containing about half a dozen soldiers (4 of them playing cards), the other two attending to us. Outside perched on the roofs of various buildings were armed soldiers. Not a very welcome situation to say the least!

We got away OK to the accompaniment of a crowd of children who had followed us to the passport office and waited outside for us to leave. By then the crowd had increased and they jeered and pulled the bikes and got a bit boisterous and aggressive. When we got to the outskirts they’d given up, it was dark and we looked for a camp spot. Before we found one we came across another town within 5km so we rode away from that. By now it was becoming dangerous and passing trucks and buses were not helping, so we just plumped for the first bit of grass we saw, which was between the road and a railroad, a strip of about 50 yards wide. We got as far from the road as possible and set up the tent. Supper was a tin of pilchards, bread, and a tin of fruit cocktail, all purchased on the border at Desaguedero. I needn’t have worried about having a disturbed night from the traffic, I felt bad all night with diarrhoea and sickness. With practically no sleep and knowing that La Paz was some 90km away I was dreading not being well enough to ride to the capital in the morning.

Friday 23rd October
Nearing La Paz

I was up a 6.30am feeling like a dog! and prepared for the road. Couldn’t face breakfast, in fact just watching Martin eat made me want to heave. We started to ride at 8 on a mixture of roads, undulating, but mainly across an altiplano. The surfaces ranged from sand to rocks and at one time we came across an earth leveller that was just ploughing up the surface into a thick muddy mess, we had to resort to the local bike path for about 8km!! It was a sandy earth track about the width of a car tyre and returned to the road to cross ditches, which usually meant us dismounting to get across. 20km from La Paz I had to stop and rest at the roadside, I was feeling exhausted and sick again and found I was laying outside the local burial ground but felt that I should be laying inside!! It was 3.15pm, and I hoped to get to La Paz tonight and the comfort of a hotel. 15km to La Paz the road was paved thank goodness!! and I was weak and reduced to walking pace.

We stopped and took pictures from La Paz spaghetti junction and then descended the last 5km into the city which was pretty cold. Down in the city trying to find the Hotel Pullman which the 4 Austrian guys at the border had recommended wasn’t easy. I was feeling really bad and we kept being directed here, there, and everywhere, up and down cobbled streets. Eventually we found it, and I just crashed on to the bed shattered!! Martin, I think? realised how terrible I felt because he carried my bike up the hotel stairs and unpacked my saddlebag for me. He said later I looked a terrible colour, in fact at one part of the day I thought my arms and legs were changing to a funny colour and texture and I began to wonder if it was Jaundice.

I eventually mustered up enough energy to have a wash (the first for three days) Martin and a German guy sharing our room went out for a meal, I was too ill to go. Slept pretty soundly on a bed, sagging to the floor in the middle!

Saturday 24th October
La Paz

I woke feeling grateful I was a little better, and after repairing a few tubes we set off to see the city and try and make the necessary arrangements to re-schedule. Time has at last run out, we shall never get to Rio by bike in time for our flights home. Called at Reuters news agency who assured me there was a letter for me, but not accessible until Monday. They also told me there was no call collect facility in La Paz which means of course that Helen will be extremely worried not hearing from me. Martin called at the Dutch Embassy for his mail and they don’t open till Monday! Then on to the Immigration office for our exit visa and yet again they don’t open until Monday! so it looks as if we’re here until Monday any way. We enquired about travel and flights out of La Paz to Brazil knowing it is possible to ride overland to Santa Cruz then by train halfway into Brazil and bike to Rio (our original intention) which was going to be a heck of a way! and time is not on our side. Otherwise we can fly direct to Sao Paulo or Rio. We’ve got to wait until Monday to get an exit visa anyway! whatever we decide to do (I’ll sleep on it!)

Roamed the city and markets wet and cold, finding most businesses and shops closed mid-day. After supper, had an interesting chat with a couple of guys, one was a parrot dealer from Warrington, name of Malcolm Dumbleton. He also said there is no call collect available here and it is about 400 pesos a minute to make a call to England. He was also saying that at 1am it’s curfew time and anyone roaming the streets is bundled into trucks and taken to spend the night in the city stadium! Posted cards to Monty, Norman, Helen, Tom Vickery. In the cafe where we had our supper the pinup poster on the wall of Raquel Welch was published by Pace International, Mercury House and printed by H.P. Dorey of Romford!! Small world!!! I feel a hell of a way from my home in ROMFORD at the moment.

My diarrhoea and sickness problem although better than the previous night and day was still not right. My stomach felt a bit queezy, and I was eating, but not with any great relish!

Sunday 25th October
La Paz

After a fitful sleep I woke at 7 with a bout of wind that proved to be disastrous and underpants had to be washed later! We strolled the city in the morning, listening to a military band in the plaza and a call to the Post office. I didn’t eat all day trying to give my sickness a chance, which was just as well as we were running short of pesos and not able to get any until Monday. Pity, because I want to pick up a few souvenirs and if I leave that until Monday I might not have time, we hope to get a flight that day.

We spent the afternoon cleaning the bikes in case we had to dismantle them for the flight, I also found time for a couple of hours nap! Cleaning bikes of course reminds me how well the equipment has stood up to the brutal treatment. The tyres are just terrific, (Michelin) they didn’t cut or split and wore extremely well. The wheels and transmission got equally rough treatment and did not let me down at all. The only thing I have noticed is the rear 5 sprocket block now has a few teeth with the tops missing. The Blackburn rack I broke when I fell has finally got me through after a pretty weak repair. It did come adrift each time I fell off but I was soon able to refix it. Yes, nothing but praise for all the accessories (including the Hartley Alley luggage bags) that I’m sure were never designed for work that I put them to. I climbed into bed about 9 but Martin continued to work on his bike until quite late, we’d been out for supper which amounted to a few take-away chicken pieces (I think it was chicken neck!?) we’d run out of Pesos for anything better.

 

Monday 26th October
La Paz

It’s MONDAY the day La Paz apparently comes alive! We can now set about making urgent arrangements to get to Brazil and Rio as soon as possible. Martin worked on his bike (spoke replacement) until 10 by which time I was sure we wouldn’t have time to do all that was necessary. The immigration registration took ages and afterwards we both collected our mail from Reuters and the Embassy. (It was exciting to read Helen’s letter and relief to know everything was alright).

By the time we got to the Cambio to get our desperately needed pesos, they were shut, not reopening until 2. Martin changed $20 in the street so we could eat while we waited for the travel agents to open and find out how we can get to RIO in the 10 days we have left. They told us the hope of getting the 5 o’clock plane to Santa Cruz today was remote. Tuesday morning was the next one available, and that followed by a train journey halfway into Brazil would not get us there until Saturday. That only leaves 1 week to get the 600 miles to Rio by bike for my flight home on Nov 10th. Can’t chance that, so we decided to fly to Sao Paulo tomorrow at 3 and ride 400 miles to Rio from there (flight $271 or 6,980 pesos which at our exchange rate was just under $200).

So it was off to the Cambio to change our money and another night at the Hotel Pullman, a double room is 120 pesos. Tonight the city twinkles with lights up the hillsides but there was a hailstorm and rain which reduced the city to a complete mess! Uneven cobbled roads, side walks with holes full of mud, trading and food being prepared and sold amidst rain water running everywhere! We went for a meal but returned to the hotel after a while, it was still raining. There seems to be a noticeable absence of bike riders in La Paz, that’s understandable when you see the hilly and steep, badly cobbled streets.

Tuesday 27th October
La Paz

Up at 7 to do the last minute bits and pieces before we fly. Pick up a few souvenirs and get some Brazilian currency. Martin went to the Dutch Embassy again to see if there was any mail, but he had no luck. He was disappointed, he hadn’t heard from Kathy or home. The Brazilian cruzeiros weren’t available either. At 11 o’clock we rode away from the Pullman, our home for three days and made our way to the airport. Climbing the auto route, 5km up in the sky! it took me an hour to reach the top, where we stopped for a drink and photos. It was here that I noticed the light meter on the camera wasn’t working so I have a problem. I took pictures in the hope the shutter control was still functioning, I’ll try and get a new battery at one of the airports, perhaps that might help?

Rode on to the airport and got all the check-in done. Martin got someone in front of us to take one piece of baggage for him and our two bikes and my saddlebag was then underweight (quick thinking!). We did however have to pay $10 each airport tax! Spent our last pesos in the coffee shop and waited for departure which was 3 hours late. Got away at 6 on a Boeing 727 with some fantastic views of the Andes over which we had ridden and struggled for days, even saw that dreaded gravel road of Friday afternoon when I was so bad. It soon got dark though and we headed for Santa Cruz. Landed there for a 20 minutes scheduled stop and Martin was conversing with a Brazilian guy in front of us who spoke Dutch (he was born in a Dutch colony near Brazil) he’d also spoken to him at La Paz and he advised us to take the scenic route to Rio along the coast.

Took off from Santa Cruz at 7.30 and during a 3 course chicken dinner with wine saw some spectacular views of electrical storms all over the sky, which caused quite a lot of turbulence later. Landed at Sao Paulo at 10pm which was 11 local time. The bikes were OK having taken out the front wheel and strapped it to the frame. Formalities done we assembled the bikes. Set about making attempts to stay in the airport overnight, checking with the security people first. I spent a very uncomfortable night, being troubled with the sore throat and cold that had been coming on for the past couple of days and the cleaning staff didn’t help, they were in the arrival hall all night making quite a noise! I didn’t sleep at all.