Derek Jennings
North to Alaska via the Circle Line

Experience an account of 40 days
on a bicycle from Vancouver across
the Arctic Circle to Anchorage

Dawson City

Rose, and packed camp and prepared to leave for Alaska. In the short time that was left I went to find the typical log cabin of the 1800’s on the hillside above Dawson, occupied by the “Bard of the Klondike” – ‘Robert Service’. Here he lived a spartan life writing many gruesome ballads about life in the Yukon, including, ‘The Shooting of Dan McGrew’. I listened to readings given on request outside his cabin by a local actor. The traditional shows and displays of the area were fantastic! Dawson still has its muddy or dusty streets.

Left a note for Ken Hunter regretting I’d missed him last night. Wrote a letter to Helen, enclosing a Polaroid print, a traveller had taken it as I crossed the Arctic Circle on the Dempster a few weeks ago. Then made off on the ferry back across the Yukon river.

At 9.20am I headed for the Alaskan border; It was essential I reached it by nightfall otherwise I would find it closed until the morning, with no hope of finding shelter. The ride was all it was reputed to be, a 10 mile climb out of Dawson and then continual climbing around what I’d heard described as a ‘boiling sea of endless hills’ accompanied by weather that was often, too hot, too cold, too wet and too windy, all in one day! on a road known as the ‘Top of the World Highway.’ By 12.30pm I covered 40km and stopped for a snack (packet of dates). It was still cool and I rode in ‘plus twos’ and socks, 2 jerseys and gloves. Lunch at 2pm (60km) and storm clouds were gathering, but it was sunny where I was. Just after lunch I decided that the last 40km could be done in shorts, so I changed by the roadside. That did it!! saw lightening on the distant hills and within 10km it hailed and turned to driving rain, rode a further 5km then a truck driver passed and advised me to pull in to his construction gangs cabin just up the road. So it was coffee and a chance to dry out and back on with the trousers. The gang went home at 5pm and left me to lock up! It did ease at 5.30pm and I made another start, 20km to go. Took the rain gear off after 10km and then made the last final grind to the top, it really was tough! I’d been told it would be the meanest climb of the day, but the border was crossed at 8pm with no bother. Terrific!!

I’m back in Alaska, trying to get to Boundry, the nearest community a few miles away. Found a place to shelter there, and a 3 course meal ($10 American). The clock went back 1 hour. Camped under the porch of a derelict log cabin out on the highway. Went for a beer in ‘Action Jacks’ bar (and was treated to a drink by one of the locals). There is apparently 100 miles, to do tomorrow then I will be back on paved roads. The customs officer on the border gave me a map of Alaska, so I’m all set for the last stage now!

Most of todays ride was marked by a complete silence, broken only by the sound of chain links rolling slowly over the teeth of the bicycle chainring and my steady deep breathing as I climbed around that boiling sea of endless hills.

Boundry AK.

Woke at 7am to a dismal day, got a breakfast in the cafe, its the only one, nothing else here, just ‘Action Jacks’ bar and the Post Office. Made a start on what I expected to be a hilly days ride, on mucky roads from the rain the night before. I hung around the cafe talking to guys, not really wanting to start. The hills were hanging in mist and there was a whacking great climb outside too! I did not relish it, if it was going to be like that all day, so I didn’t leave until 9am and soon a light rain began.

It was 13 miles on a rocky road to Jack Wade Junction; then a long descent to the river and a flat riverside ride. The weather became brighter, surprising how with a little improvement you soon forget the hard times. I went well for a while, but it became hilly again. ‘Chicken’ the next place on the map, didn’t appear when I expected it, and it rained heavy again. Made myself a rain shelter from the plastic sheets the guy in the bar gave me last night. When it stopped I continued to climb over two more hills and Chicken came into view at 35 miles. It had taken me over 4 hours! Found a cafe just in time, the rain came again, real heavy this time! They’re saying around these parts that it rains every day (they’re not kidding!) It was still spitting as I left at 4pm, but in a short while the sun appeared and I was “sweating buckets” with all the climbing. Stopped and stripped down to a short sleeved jersey and shorts. In a couple of hours I was back in long sleeves again.

Slowly the miles went by (miles now – not kilometres,) but it was hard going. I then came upon road construction; Fifteen to twenty miles of it and it worsened. The further I went, it became muddier and rutted. Broke a spoke but tried to get through if I could. Managed it by 10 o’clock, and gave it my best! Thankfully the weather held out and I calculate I’ve covered 85 miles today. Just 25 miles to go and I’ll be back on paved roads again. Had a little dormitory feast in the tent, cheese sandwich, a banana and a can of pop. “GOODNIGHT”.

at the end of the Taylor Highway

Woke at 7.15am and made ready – away by 8.20, felt pretty cold so it was on with the gloves and anorak, 2 jerseys and hat. Tetlin jct. finally came but the last 5 miles contained patches of soft ash and my thin tyres sunk in. Half a mile from the junction a descent took me to the road edge and I fell! – a final curtain to the ‘Top of the World Highway’. Fortunately there’s no damage so I can now join the Alaska Highway here.

It was a hot cake breakfast at the junction truck stop cafe at 10.45am and along the Alaska Highway to Tok junction. Rain came shortly and after only 2 miles there was road construction, just when I thought it was all paved! I sheltered in the flagman’s truck just as he had received his pay cheque – $1,100 for a 54 hour week ($1,740 gross), not bad eh!

Set off again and in a short while more rain came, heavy this time, sheltered at ‘Fast Eddys Pizza Place’ and talked to motorcycle riders from Florida. Half a mile on a paved road took me to Tok junction where outside the Visitor Centre looked a good place to set up HQ. There I cleaned up the bike, renewed a broken spoke and generally tidied up. It was early afternoon when the rain came again. This time it stayed and was real heavy, so glad I\’m rid of the dirt roads, this is going to destroy them!

There are quite a few travellers around, 3 bike riders and 5 or 6 hitch-hikers. After a visit to the Centre I sat for hours in a Tastee Freez ice cream parlour with Dan, Angelika and Robert (2 bike riders and a backpacker) and the rain didn’t stop. Thoughts turned to staying somewhere overnight and Robert led us to ‘His Place’ which was a broken down old Laundromat he knew about, just behind the Visitor Centre. Although I have not got very far today, it was an interesting social gathering, with each of us swopping travel yarns. The Laundromat was a mess so we slept in what had been a shower cubicle section above it. Ah well! if the weather improves tomorrow I might do better. Don’t feel I’ve progressed very far over the last few days.

Tok. Alaska

The Laundromat proved useful. The rain continued during the night and the roof didn’t leak! Up at 6.30am and hung around with the gang then finally got under way at 8.30am. Angelika and Dan didn’t seem in a hurry to go, I got the feeling he wasn’t keen to ride with me on his 60 inch gear mountain bike. Robert put himself beside the highway for his lift and I set out alone on a 47 mile ride to Dot Lake under threatening skies, but no rain!

There was a good following wind, an undulating road, scrubland and small trees along side, with glimpses now and again of the 10,000ft high Alaskan Mountain range. Ate my own sandwiches outside a cafe and went inside for a pecan pie a-la-mode. On leaving, saw Angelika arrive, without Dan, she’d left him behind. It was now 63 miles to Delta junction with no places in between. The road continued flat along the Delta, trees to either side crossing a couple of huge wide rivers, just mud flats (the melt waters were still to come). Blew an inner tube after about 5 miles, replaced that, then another spoke broke during the afternoon. I didn’t stop all day, apart from the repair and changed into shorts and short sleeved jersey at the same time, but it cooled quickly and I soon had to put the long sleeve one back! Made Delta at 6.30pm and treated myself to a proper dinner, the $9 95c ‘Special’.

It was now 8 o’clock and the weather was still holding so I decided to do a couple of hours more riding, but before I got free of Delta I spied a Tastee Freez and popped in there for a pint of ‘half and half’ (double flavoured ice-cream). Eventually I rode another 45 miles until 11.15pm making a total of 150 today. Just as I was looking for a camp spot the rain started again. Some 50 miles distant the view of the Alaskan range tonight across the river mud flats is quite dramatic. Here in the tent at 12 o’clock it is again still light enough to write this diary.

40 miles north of Delta Junction

Woke at 6.30am to rain showers and got underway in an hour. I’d managed to find an unoccupied cabin last night and camped on the grass outside, but the bugs were there in their thousands (last night and this morning). Eagerly looked for a coffee shop which didn’t come for 12 miles, at Salchaket. Got going again but felt a bit full up! and uncomfortable after a ‘tall stack’ of pancakes and maple syrup – I didn\’t feel right in the saddle either, so was not enjoying the ride one little bit. A strong wind didn’t help on the long exposed stretches of road passing Eilson Air Force base and Fort Wainwright. Eventually came to North Pole which boasted of a population of 200 ‘souls’ but one of them happened to be SANTA CLAUS! Called at Santa’s house and crossed his palm with silver; he promised to write to my granddaughters.

It was then 13 miles on to Fairbanks. Once there I made one or two calls. To the bank; I was running out of money, to a bike shop; I was running out of spokes and of course the grocery; I was always running out of food. I also found Alaskaland – a theme park, but thought that was a bit ‘tatty’, a lot of construction going on and I never quite got the feel of the place – not like Dawson City! Fairbanks was a large town, just like any others to be found in the ‘Lower 48’ I had aimlessly floundered around finding the various places of interest so I headed out of town to see how far I could get.

On the route again after 10 miles I came to Ester and decided I’d better eat there, might not be another chance today! Glad I called in, it was a small, old, gold mine set up, but well presented. The hotel dining hall was set out like a miners mess hall. The Malumute Saloon alongside was a spit and sawdust floor and bar with a small vaudeville stage at the end. All very authentic and hardly anyone around. The meal was all you can eat for $8 so I made a pig of myself and left at 7pm. It had been very hilly and windy to Ester on the George Parkes Highway and the road continued like that. I got so frustrated, I was only travelling at walking pace and each mile was a ‘grovel’. It seemed as if everything had turned into a hopeless task, but I struggled on counting each milepost, but oh! they were so slow coming! I decided I would stop at 10pm thinking that would leave about 85 miles to do tomorrow to Denali Nat Park and Mt. McKinley.

My watch stopped at 9.20 and the road got unexpectedly less hilly, when I came across some fishermen in a layby. On enquiring I found it was 10.25 and Nenana was only 8 miles away so I gave it a whirl. Arrived about 11.45pm and found a 24 hour gas station offering free coffee and ‘brownies to go with it.’ – Would you believe it! on the counter was ‘CUTTERS CREAM’ – too late now, I lost the battle against the “Mossies” long ago, I bought it as a keepsake anyway. Stayed until midnight and made off down the road to camp. It is now 1 o’clock and still light, McKinley is now only 65 miles away so I should make that comfortably tomorrow. This camp spot is a small clearing beside the road surrounded by a wooded area, about a mile or so out of Nenana.

Nenana

Woke at 6.30am and got away in an hour, it was the first time I had packed up the tent dry for many a day! I had heard the wind gusting during the night, it sounded like a bikers nightmare! The road was quite flat, but a cross wind made it a conscious push all the time. Anxiously I looked for a coffee shop, but there was not a sign of one until Talkeetna gift store where they were offering free coffee and cookies. Three Atlas coaches were there, and would you believe it! “Steve” was driving one of them (the guy who drove me down the Dempster). He seemed surprised to see me again and it was sure great for me. The coach parties were treating me like a celebrity again (or was it a “wierdy”?), questions and photo’s and after my fill of coffee and cookies I was off, on my way to Healy and made it by 1.30pm, but construction had begun, which was going to last for 17 miles and the road had now entered a pass into the teeth of a headwind. The wind and gravel was a real “PIG” and I was reduced to walking pace, but Healy eventually came and I stayed over an hour in a cafe.

Left, not looking forward to the next 13 miles but I grovelled through it, although the wind got worse at times. Arrived at Riley Creek, the entrance to Denali Nat Park at 4 o’clock and got myself organised to stay at the Youth Hostel that I know is around here. Tomorrow there is a bus tour to Mt. McKinley 20,000ft (the highest mountain in Nth America). Renewed a spoke I had broken yesterday then took myself for a shower. Later enjoyed a slide show, followed by a marvellous presentation by one of the Park Rangers who read ballads of Robert Service. At the Hostel I prepared for tomorrows trip.I did not enjoy todays ride, it was slow and I struggled, shouting and cursing aloud over the worst parts to ease the pain.

Denali Nat Park

Woke at 5.30am to find I’d had a good nights sleep, still had the odd times during the night when the irritation from the bites kept me awake. Over at Riley Creek I boarded the 7 o’clock bus into the Park.

The journey really was spectacular, 5 hours to Wonder Lake, through some pretty hairaising gravel passes and of course high mountains ending with magnificent Mt. McKinley at 20,000ft. The road was around 5,000ft and there was wildlife to be seen, Moose Caribou, Dall Sheep, Marmot, Golden Eagle, Ptarmigan and not to mention GRIZZLY BEAR which was at a great distance, appearing as just a dot on the landscape and needing binoculars to be seen. Most passengers had them, but I hadn’t. They made me smile, the way they screamed at the driver to stop when they saw one of these indistinguishable specks. “GRIZZLY Bear” was the shout, the fuss was unbelievable! On the return journey however the Caribou did seem to be nearer the road. A very uncomfortable bus to sit on for 10 hours, but what can you expect for free! No food or drink available all day but I took bread, cheese and choc milk. On returning at 5pm I was ready for a meal so I splashed out in the McKinley Hotel and had my first introduction to ‘Mud Pie’ although I had experienced real Alaskan mud other ways over the past few days!

Once again lady luck was smiling on me because the summit of Mt. McKinley was clear today for part of the time and I was able to get some good photo’s. Apparently this is seldom the case, about 40% of the visitors go away disappointed. In fact the days weather was quite fair, except it was still windy.

After dinner I had a long talk with a family from Iowa who had seen me up the Dempster and wanted to hear about the journey; they ended up following me back to the Youth Hostel; just to have a look at the bike.

Denali Nat Park

Well! looking at the weather outside I just can\’t believe I was able to go to Mt. McKinley and see it as I did. Today it looks as though it could be cloudy and dull and hardly worthwhile. I had slept well and left the Hostel at 9am to see a sled dog demonstration.

Got under way from Riley Creek just after midday under what can only be described as cold, wet, and windy conditions through mountains rising each side of the road. They were streaked with snow, clouded at the top and the wind was still against me! Rain and drizzle made it slow going and I decided to eat at Cantwell after 27 miles, in case there was not another opportunity ahead. Found the cafe to be 2 miles West of the highway, but I went there anyway! Tried a few more miles afterwards (22) and got to a gas station so went in for coffee as by now I was pretty wet! It had rained for the last 5 miles. The ride was through Broad Pass, so broad that it resembled sweeping open moorland country at 2,000ft. I knew the mountains were on either side but 40 miles apart, the only trouble was that I couldn’t see them as they were completely hidden by cloud right down to their base. It was just like riding blind with the wind still right up my nose! Two miles further was a campground.

It was now 8 o’clock so after checking what lay ahead (nothing for 30 miles) I decided to stop. I’ll get an early night, and hope by morning the weather will improve. If I can get an early start and knock off 100 miles tomorrow it will leave eighty five for the final day into Anchorage.