Derek Jennings
North to Alaska via the Circle Line

Experience an account of 40 days
on a bicycle from Vancouver across
the Arctic Circle to Anchorage

Campsite 50 miles south of Denali

Up to 6.40am having slept in my clothes to keep warm, but my feet were still cold! Outside it was murky with a mist low on the ground and up the hillsides. I started riding at 7.30am with Willow my days objective. Only problem is I’m down to a $50 bill! so I\’ll have to be selective with my spending until I can get to a bank at Wasilla tomorrow.

Soon after hitting the road it set in to rain steady and at 30 miles there was a gas station, it was also a weather station and the guys told me there was going to be no let up for 3 or 4 days! I dried out round their fire and spent $3 50c on a breakfast. I mentioned I was having to watch my spending and they wrote me a VISA debit for $50 of gas – for cash! So once again the dear Lord was taking care of me!

I decided I would have to plod on at 20 mile intervals with a coffee stop at each. Got into conversation with a couple whose daughter had ridden the Bikecentennial Trail across America (as I had) in 1976. Stayed talking for hours and by the time I left the rain had eased, then it was 20 miles to Mountain Haus. The weather had now improved and I put away the rain gear, the wind today is not so troublesome either. Trapper Creek came another 15 miles down the road and more coffee with Pecan pie a-la-mode, boy! was I giving that food a bashing, it was available more frequently now and I had money

With better weather I changed in to a short sleeve jersey and shorts, the first time in many days. Another 30 miles got me to Willow by 9.45pm after a coffee and cinnamon bun at ‘Ellies’ roadside cafe. I even managed another 10 miles so that has made 123 today, the second longest of the trip. Broke another spoke this evening, so that’s two to be replaced now! A campground is half a mile down the road.

Houston AK

Made two attempts to get going this morning. I found my watch had stopped at 6.50 and it really was 7.50! Rode to Wasilla for a breakfast at 9.30. It was a dual carriageway road for the next 40 miles with nice views ahead of the Chugach Mountains. The sun came out so I was down to a short sleeve jersey again.

Back on the highway and following a bike route I noticed a biker ahead and joined him. His name was Dave, returning from a 2 day ride out in the country. He lived in Anchorage and asked me back to his place – a rented house he shared with three other guys. I was now able to do all the outstanding tasks that had so long been neglected. Laundry (first time for 51 ⁄2 weeks!), a shower, and renew three broken spokes (another one went this morning). Almost feel like a new man! Daves’ place is on Government Hill a suburb of Anchorage so I haven’t yet seen ‘Downtown’.

Around 9pm they all suggested going for a pizza, so we went to “Shakeys” and afterwards a tour of the bars! ‘Chilcoot Charlies’ was quite interesting, I even tried a game of Horseshoes. Moving to another bar the game they played changed to Shuffleboard. All this lasted until 3am! I had no way of getting back to Government Hill unless I took a cab, so I waited and returned home with the lads in Gregs car. Bed at 4 o’clock! Daves’ companion ‘J.J.’ has in his drunken state given me a Gortex Parka jacket to research – he’s quite a guy and says he’s done some wonderful things in his life! – but doesn’t perform quite so well these days! Today Dave showed me the salmon coming up the creek to the spawning grounds, an incredible sight, wriggling their way over a rocky creek bed in shallow water, 2-3ft long and 20 or 30 of them at a time.

Anchorage AK

Woke at 7.45am and got on the road 8.30 into downtown and had confusion finding the facilities I needed. Gave it up in the end – it was a ‘BIG place’ just like any of those in the Lower 48. Headed out to Portage deciding to sort things out as I go. I’ve got 10 days before I need to be in Anchorage for the flight home and after receiving plenty of advice from the Visitor Centre I’ve settled to occupy the time on a sea voyage around Prince William Sound (with the bike of course), that will get me to Cordova, Valdez, and the Columbia Glacier. Breakfasted at ‘Denny’s on Diamond Blvd – ‘special’ $4 10c not bad! Met a biker there who was going to Valdez where he lives, he asked to see me on the boat to hear about my ride. Got $100 from the bank, so I’m solvent again. The ride to Portage – 50 miles along Turn- AgainArm was impressive, beside an inlet with snow covered mountains each side. The further I rode the wind increased until it was stiff all the way, I didn’t make very good time as roadside visitors kept talking to me, but time wasn’t important now. Made Portage at 3.15pm only to find that it was a railroad boarding place, nothing else except a mobile snack bar in the yard. So it was a hot-dog and a wait for the train that came at 4 o’clock, I’m heading for the harbour at Whittier and the only access is by rail tunnelled 10 miles through the Chugach Mountains (no roads). I spoke to a couple of bikers getting off the train who lived in Anchorage. Telling them I would be flying home from there in a weeks time they said they would drop a bike box into the Youth Hostel for me (I need one to package my bike home). That’s another little problem overcome – if it works out? Once through the tunnels I was out into Whittier, where it was raining with no sight of the surrounding mountains, only a very muddy, wet, messy habourside. So it was on with J.J’s Gortex and on to the Sportsman Inn for a ‘blowout’ meal, a house special $7 95c. Got talking to a local fisherman and it seems as though I’ve got a roof over my head tonight while I wait for tomorrows boat, he’s offered me shelter in his Kyak boathouse! His name is Tom who has the only independent accommodation in Whittier. This is a unique place, a military secret ice free port of World War 2. With the military now gone the population of 250 live in the ex-military building (like a condominium) and make their living from the sea. I promised Tom’s two children that I would send them a postcard from London, sure glad I met him as it enabled me to get a much better idea of Whittier and what it is all about!

Whittier AK

Didn’t wake until 8 o’clock to find it was dull, misty and still raining! Went up to the Sportsman for breakfast then roamed around in the rain taking pictures and wrote a few cards before boarding the Motor Vessel Bartlett to Cordova, via Valdez – $42. Yesterdays biker turned up along with another and also a Scot backpacker so I had plenty of company. Visibility in the first hour was poor, it improved later and the spectacular cruise included a sail right up to the face of the Columbia Glacier and ice-pack with a shoal of seals thrown in for good measure! I can’t help feeling that Helen should be in my shoes. Oh! how she would love this!! Saw sea otters playing in the water as we docked at Valdez 10.30pm. Took a quick run into town for a snack and back on board left at midnight for Cordova. Slept on deck through the night and arrived at 5.30am. Surprised to find it was not raining, as the handbook says they get 200 days of it annually!

Cordova AK

Rode into downtown and the Pioneer cafe for breakfast. I was exploring the town by eight but it hadn’t aroused yet! so I decided to give the bike a clean-up. Within 10 mins of setting myself up at a nearby picnic table in the main street, Angel (pronounced Anhil) a resident turned up and spoke to me, and my day was planned. He asked me back to his place “For a shower” he said! (I wonder why that was?) I couldn\’t turn that down and afterwards he recommended I phone British Airways to reschedule my flight and advance it one week. I managed to phone Helen as well.

Anhil encouraged me to spend the rest of the day taking a ride out to the Sheridan Glacier. On my return it was a visit to the Museum, bought some cards and returned to Anhil’s place to get them written. One thing I’d promised myself before I left Alaska was a salmon meal and would you believe it? he asked me to stay for a meal “Would I like Salmon?” he said (would I like salmon!!!). Two of his friends came to join us, Willie and his partner who were setting up a smoked salmon business (Midnight Sun Seafoods).

We sat talking over the meal until quite late when it was time to make my way to the ferry terminal. On board I bedded down and the boat left at midnight, returning to Portage. I was troubled all night by a fractious child and then by a painful sore throat. So! it looks as if I’ve got a cold coming.

Valdez AK

Boat docked at Valdez at 5.45am and I had to disembark to check my stand-by reservation. Walking into the ferry office on the dockside I saw another biker sitting there waiting to board, he had no need to tell me who he was, I knew immediately, it was Paul Claxton! – so we met at last. He had ridden down the Richardson Highway from Fairbanks to Valdez and was ferrying to Anchorage.

Neither of us got on the boat – it took only two foot passengers off a standby list. Paul and I were no’s 3 and 4 so it was a 24hr wait until tomorrow’s boat to see if we could get on that! Took ourselves off to the Totem Inn for breakfast where we had a long talk then a ride round town and back to the harbour to take pictures of our meeting.

I must get myself to Anchorage as soon as I can, now that my flight home has been advanced one week. I’ve only 3 days to get there. My enquiries put me in touch with Ron, a truck driver for the Anchorage Cold Storage Co. who offered me a lift. I spent the rest of the day being driven the 300 miles by road to Anchorage in the cab of his refrigerated truck! I gave Paul my boat ticket and he is going to take my No.1 position on the stand-by list, Great!

Arrived at 9pm and went to Dave’s house where he and J.J were barbequing spare ribs. I sat down to supper with them after which J.J took snuff (a chewing tobacco they said?) and Dave smelt rose petals! (there were several bowls of them around the apartment) Got to bed at 12.30 SHATTERED!! What a day!

Anchorage AK

Up at 7.45 and said my goodbyes, making my way to the Youth Hostel to check out the bike box (yes it was there). A snack in the ‘Parle vou Francais’ bakery put me in touch with Paul Fletcher (another ‘Brit’) working there, who was going to bike from Prudoe Bay to Tierra del Fuego over twelve months! Inexperienced, he was anxious for advice, so I stayed with him for a couple of hours and took him to a bike shop to select a suitable pair of shoes. I installed myself in the hostel after a burger supper and ‘crashed’ into bed, Paul Claxton has arrived after getting this mornings boat from Valdez.

Anchorage AK

The Hostel was run on strict lines and everyone had to leave by 9am. Outside I rode into downtown for the morning service at All Saints’ Church and stayed for the coffee hour, speaking to some of the congregation. Ross, one of the sidesmen invited me to his home and I eventually got to packing my bike in his garage before he dropped me back at the hostel at 4 o’clock.

The final baggage tidying up was done there and I went for a meal I could ill afford, as I was running out of money! The tent I borrowed for this trip needed to be posted back to it’s owner, and there is a bus fare to the airport tomorrow! After spending $4 85c at ‘Skippers’ on an ‘All you can eat’ meal I only had $5 72c left which I suspect is running it a bit close!