Derek Jennings
Tibet – Where There’s a Will There’s a Way

Experience an account of the attempt to see Tibet and the Himalayas whilst riding a bicycle from Lhasa to Kathmandu

Tuesday September 21st
Lhasa

Up at 8, not a bad nights sleep – looks wet outside and low cloud. Now off to meet the student and buy the bike. Rented a bike and rode with her to the shop, chose the most suitable one and haggled over the price but the guy wouldn’t shift from 800 yuan plus 20 for a bottle cage. Searched a long time for the Lhasa branch of the Bank of China, even the student had a job finding it! Managed to get cash on my VISA, it took an hour to carry out the business while the student waited outside minding the bike. I rode my rented bike back to the Holiday Inn wheeling the one I’d just bought beside me!! Quite a feat among all the bikes and rickshaws not to mention the motor traffic. Said goodbye to the student, gave her my address, offered her my last remaining Renmimbi 20 yuan, she would hear nothing of it, I promised to write and said goodbye.

Unable to give me her address in English she went to her college to get it and would leave it at the hotel front gate for me. Got my hotel meal vouchers sorted out (still having trouble not being on the group visa) had lunch and off to the Bank of China for more funds. They were closed, so it was off to see Jigme, I found him with the aid of the map he drew me last night. Couple of snags now, the office printer wouldn’t work so no contract could be drawn up and would you believe it when I told him Cao Ting in Beijing took 1000 yuan from me for the business he said I’d been swindled!! Cao had done nothing! his was a different company and all he had done was liaise with Jigme. The T I S T and C I S T are different companys one is Tibet Sports Travel the other is China Sports Travel.

Popped back to the Bank before they closed while Jigme was finalising the business, got back to him at 5.30, gave him my passport which he returned to me at the hotel at 7.30 and introduced me to my guide for tomorrow who will be accompanied by a driver of a Jeep (the countrys regulations require this). Later I nipped out to take some fantastic shots of Lhasa with Potala palace in the background, I hope they turn out all right. So it’s last minute packing, a good nights sleep and it’s finally come! I’M OFF IN THE MORNING! at 9am.

Wednesday September 22nd
Lhasa

This is the day! Up at 7, – breakfast, then checked out of hotel paying for the call to Helen, 242 yuan (£3). At 9 o’clock on the dot I left a farewell note for the group leader, said goodbye to a few of the group and was soon underway. Two guides have turned up, they’ve got with them a Toyota landcruiser!, haven’t found out what that’s all about. I took off in the wrong direction for 15 minutes until the guide found me and turned me round. Spent the morning riding to the bridge which was the junction to Gongar airport and Shigatse. Pretty fertile land alongside the river stretching to mountain regions in the distance. The road was surfaced, but broken and bumpy, and roundabout midday I punctured but continued riding for the bridge. Eventually found a small settlement and with the aid of my guide who found a small roadside repairer, a new tube was fitted.

Set out for the bridge where the guide was waiting to direct me toward the Kamba La Pass and Nargatze, along a fairly good concrete road which later forked left at a check point to ascend. Just as I did so I found the rear tyre was softening again! Stopped and waited for my guide. I’ve no hope now, I will not make Nargatze by bike tonight so with the bike in the back of the Toyota it was off to Nargatze for an overnight. It took about 3 hours over the Pass to Yamdrok lake on rock dirt and rutted roads. Mountain drainage courses running across it at intervals and has now risen to 5,428m. It was much too far today! I would never have made it on the bike. “Guess I’ll have to think it out again”. Slept in a guest house at Nargatze and ate in the local tavern (rice, hot milky China tea and a bottle of beer if you want it) on a dirt floor with grubby drapes on the ceiling and some of the locals socialising here!

Thursday September 23rd
Nargatze

Up at 8 after a “Night of the Dogs.” All night long all that could be heard far and near was the sound of barking dogs. Made ready for the “off”. Having now decided that I will have to continue the journey in the vehicle and get the puncture repaired when the opportunity arises. I must get it rideable by the time I get to the border at Zhangmu where the guide will be leaving me and I will be making my way alone 125km to Kathmandu. Took a photo before breakfast at the local tavern again, then, I got the guide to write his name in English for me so I could remember it. His was Kalsang and his friend the driver (non English speaking) was Phuntsok. Tasted Tibetan tea for the first time (with salt and Yak butter) and some more milk tea. Asked Kalsang about Tsampa, the traditional dish and was told it was roasted barley flour mixed with a choice of cheese tea or butter (Tibetan porridge I suppose?). Left at 10.30 for the road to Gyangze over the Karo La at 5,010m through varied landscapes. Road surfaces were “Washboard”, rock and gravel with rivers crossings over beds of rock washed down the mountainsides.

The ascent and descent of the pass was long and slow opening into fertile land below the snowline, where cultivation and grazing was carried out by farming families living in large or small walled commune developments. Sometimes the surrounding mountains were not snow covered but green to the summit at 4,000m. Got to Gyangze at 2 o’clock in time for lunch at the pre-arranged overnight hotel. Spent the afternoon exploring the town taking photos, then writing in my room until dinner at 7. It has now become quite obvious I would never have done what I intended, even if the bike had held up, the time schedule was far too short. It would take 8-10 weeks at best to cover the 593 miles under these conditions, all I’d allowed was two weeks.

What a fantastic experience this is becoming!! I can’t believe my final ambition has been achieved this way. What is it they say about the old “Jennings Luck”?? I got five more cards posted today. Before turning in tonight I’ve read up about tomorrows destination, Shigatze.

Friday September 24th
Gyangze

Had a good nights sleep, up at 8am, and after breakfast was away by 10. It feels a bit chilly and looks overcast, the road is still bad but flat, through plains between mountains. Fertile endless stretches of barley fields and plenty of animals (oxen, sheep, mules, horses, cockrels) and farming families living in small walled communes, just what I’d expect in country districts of this world, but not TIBET!! Got a few shots of the landscape and a distant view of the approach to Shigatse although it’s getting a bit awkward having to keep asking the driver to stop so I can take the pictures. Arrived 12.30 just in time for lunch. I’ve got the rest of the day to do some sightseeing.

Before doing that I asked Kalsang if he could find someone to mend my puncture for me. He agreed and asked what I was prepared to pay, I told him 10 remimbi and shot to my room to get it. PANIC!! I couldn’t find my bum-bag which holds the only currency I possess, plus a credit card I am relying on to get my flight back home from Kathmandu. After frantic searching I imagined I must have left it in my room back at Gyangze. Kalsang phoned, and they’ve got it!! They’re going to send it on when they can. Spent the afternoon on a pilgrimage to Tashilhunpo monastery and got lost trying to find my way back to the hotel. Found Essential balm on sale here at the hotel which reminds me of the Tiger balm that is always on offer in Kathmandu. It’s supposed to be the cure of all ills! Spoke to a guy at dinner tonight who was travelling through Tibet with his daughter. They came from London, his daughter was not that well with the altitude.

Saturday September 25th
Shigatse

Up at 8 with a major problem to sort out. I can go no further until I get the bum-bag, Kalsang tells me it hasn’t arrived yet and Gyangze can’t be raised on the phone to find out if they’ve sent it, so it looks as if I’ve just got to hope and wait. I made off to Tashilhunpo monastery in search of a Mask and dance Festival I hear takes place there, and found it. Returned to the hotel only to find the bag had not turned up and no hope of getting them on the phone. A bus turned up from there a few hours later but my bag was not on it ! NOW THE TROUBLE’S REALLY ON! I’ve just got to wait some more, and when the next bus came 4 hours later it still wasn’t on it. The driver did know that my bag was at Gyangze but security prevented anyone bringing it to Shigatse. New plan of action now is that Kalsang goes to Gyangze tonight leaving Phuntsok and me here, staying in the cheapest place we can find, neither of us have any money! Kalsang will come back in the morning with my bag!, I’ll believe that when I see it!!

Sang Zhu Zi a Tibetan hotel was found by Phuntsok, 20 yuan a night and now we wait and see if Kalsang turns up with the GOODS in the morning. Phuntsok got us a dinner in the hotel and the assistant manager asked if he could come to my room afterwards – there were some things he would would like to know? I found out his name was Lodor and it was an English lesson he wanted. (I’d already given him one in my room before dinner). I managed to give him some idea how to cope with his English speaking customers, he didn’t go until 9.30 and I was ready for bed!! The worries of today have been frightening, I don’t know how I’ve coped. Many times I’ve thought I was going to breakdown. This on top of the guilt feeling of what Helen might be going through during my absence is about all I can stand. Let’s hope Kalsang turns up in the morning with the bag and we can get on with the job, and I can get back to reality as soon as possible.

Sunday September 26th
Shigatse

Well,! this is the day the group I started with is flying home. I should be with them and here I am half way through Tibet. I hope it won’t be too long before I’m “Homeward Bound”. With all that on her mind I do do hope Helen will not be worrying too much! Got up at 7.30 to attend to the call of nature!! Not easy in this rundown hotel, the worst so far. No soap, water or towels, just a little water in an enamel bowl standing on the floor! (not too sure what the idea of that is!!) The bathroom does contain a shower, washbasin, and WC, none of them working. Can you just imagine what it looks like!! (it is en suite, mind you!). Last night was the night of the “dogs” again, but not as bad as Nargatze.

Phuntsok tells me we’ve got to wait now until Kalsang arrives and there’s no telling when that’s going to be!! I’m now getting frightened,! what if something happens to him? an accident, – is he trustworthy?, will he be robbed?, anything could happen and I’ll never see my money again, or credit cards! and will never be able to pay for the flight home. All this went through my mind all morning and at 1 o’clock he arrived from Gyangze brandishing my bag. I can’t believe it!!, what would have happened to me if he hadn’t showed up at all.

So now it’s a drive to Tingri to get back on schedule after a 1 day delay. It’s expected to be a two day journey (300km), so now we’ve got to get a “wiggle” on (my visa runs out soon!) A surprising landscape, (as the pictures will show) included two passes, one at 4,500m and another at 5,220m. Grazing and pastureland set amid mountains with not a trace of Snow on them! And this is the Himalayas? I would never have believed it! It took us until 6.30 before Tingri came into view, having stopped at Lahze for lunch.

Well! things are brightening up, we’re back on schedule, I’ve got my bum-bag and we’re off to Zhangmu tomorrow, I wonder what surprises that holds in store? Tonight has got a few, we’re bedded down in the “Everest View” hotel and restaurant as it describes itself! Must get a picture in the morning, words can’t describe it! it’s certainly not a hotel or restaurant. No en-Suite rooms here, all I’ve got is two beds in a room (shack) with a dirt floor and one light bulb that works at restricted times.

Monday Sept 27th
Tingri

Up at 8 to get some shots of Everest (Chomolongma) but had trouble with the Canon camera. It’s been unreliable for a few days I’ve got it sorted now and taken some with the Olympus XA as well. Everest was hidden in cloud and not that spectacular.

 

So it was off after breakfast (japati and orange jam) for the last stage to Zhangmu that took us across pasture lands again with occasional glimpses of snow on distant peaks. Melungste being one of them, and although cloud cover was low I got another shot of Everest.

Took lunch at Nyalam at 2 which was a bit long winded! It was some time before Tibetan noodle soup appeared. I’d already had Tibetan tea in the place next door. I watched that being made in a long tube and pounded and mashed with Yak butter with a long shaft. The shots I got as I approached Nyalam were of the Himalayan range with Everest, Melungtse and Gauri Shankar on one side and Shishapangma on the other. They were visible as I climbed to the top of Lalung Leh pass at 5,050m followed by two other passes at 4,000m before reaching Nyalam at 3,750m. The thought crossed my mind that this would be a long tough, hard “grind” on a bike, especially coming the other way from Zhangmu as I had intended to do in 1990.

We now continued on our way to Zhangmu drop-ping another 2,000m through spectacular mountainsides, covered with forests and water cascading over the road and into rivers below. The road was bad, water and landslides were a problem, falling into deep gorges. So here we are at last in Zhangmu!! 4 o’clock and a few important things to attend to. Banking and Foreign exchange, check the bike for tomorrows ride, a meal then get to bed and wait for tomorrow to see if they’ll let me out of the country and find out how much that will cost Kalsang, Phuntsok and I are staying the night in the Zhangmu Hotel right beside the Border Post. Luckily I got a card off to Helen, I know she’ll be worried.

Tuesday September 28th
Zhangmu

I’m now wondering if my exit from the country will be as difficult as it was in 1990 when I tried to enter. Then it was, “no you can’t enter you haven’t the right authorisation” Now I wonder, will it be? “no you can’t exit”, for the same reason. If I do escape will money make it possible? Breakfast was scrambled egg with a choice of spicy dressings, sponge cake and jam washed down with a few cups of coffee. Now the fun starts!

It’s 9.30 and time to make a move. A photo of Kalsang and Phuntsok standing beside the Toyota and my bike waving goodbye.

We then joined a mass of people queueing to enter or exit at visa inspection and customs. I expected them to make a fuss about the bike at customs but nothing was said! It wasn’t quite the same at visa control, Kalsang was with me, he held my alien travel permit which expired today and the visa which had expired 2 days previously. I was asked if I had a copy of the group visa I’d been removed from, or any document that mentioned a visa number. I hadn’t, and negotiations continued for some time until I was asked to fill in a registration form and finally told to pay 50 yuan (£6) before an exit visa was issued.

At the same time Kalsang had been explaining the problem to the military at the barrier and the passport window beside it. We’d caused quite a commotion and after I’d coughed up the “loot” I was let across and given permission to take a final photo saying goodbye to Kalsang on the Nepal side, picturing the sensitive border and military scenes! I gave him my last 50 yuan to share with Phuntsok, I’m on my own now to start the descent down to Kodari, which is somewhat different to last time. Water cascading down the mountainside and across the road causing landslides, the pictures will tell the rest!. Got there at 1.30, and through Nepal passport control with no trouble. Took a photo of Laxmi lodge (a lodging used in 1990) no longer used as a Lodge I pedalled on, with the hope of reaching Lamasangu by nightfall. The road rose and fell alongside the Bhote Kosi river. It was tough going and I was reduced to trekking on the climbs.I couldn’t rely on this bike and had to treat it gently. It was becoming extremely hot, but I stuck it out! and gained Lamasangu by 5.30 “shattered”.

Found Silu lodge (another lodging used in 1990), 50 rupees a night and I settled for that. I met a German biker on the road today, he was heading for the Tibetan border and back, and was having mechanical trouble with a mountain bike he was riding (no baggage or spares). Got dinner in the restaurant next door, noodles, scrambled egg and tea 25 rupees. I sat at a bench table on a wooden form, it was very dim, and I watched a kid goat peeing on the floor by the cooking area and a chicken scavenging beside me on a dirt floor whilst I waited for mine to be cooked!

Turned in at nine, but inside my body was on fire although I was not perspiring. Have been low on liquids today, just coffee, 1 coke and 1 bike bottle of water. There’s certainly something wrong, perhaps with a nights rest, I might be able to tackle the road to Dhulikhel tomorrow. During the night I heard the shrieking of brakes in the road outside my room. I recognised it as the noise my bike made when I applied the brakes and discovered youngsters riding my bike out in the road. A sergeant major bawl out of the window and they immediately put it back, must check in the morning if they’ve now wrecked it!