Derek Jennings
Tibet – Where There’s a Will There’s a Way

Experience an account of the attempt to see Tibet and the Himalayas whilst riding a bicycle from Lhasa to Kathmandu

Wednesday Sept 29th
Lamasangu

Up at 8am to attend to essentials before setting off on the 33km to Dhulikhel. The day is almost over, and as I write I’m surrounded by 17 Nepali people in a place called Panchkhal. It’s been quite a day!, plenty of climbing on quite good roads, which very soon under a hot sun saw me reduced to complete exhaustion. I had to walk most of the passes and rested for an hour a couple of times in the afternoon. Came to the conclusion I’m not going to make Dhulikhel today.

I am attracting a lot of attention every time I stop and I’ve now met a group of school children on their way home. Some can speak a few words of English and I’m desperate and need somewhere to rest tonight. One lad responding to my enquiry said I could stay at his house which he said was quite near, he failed to say it was up the side of the mountain on a trekking path! I was also to find out it wasn’t near! He and the other children helped as I struggled with the bike up a dangerous path I was exhausted, and could go no further, the house hadn’t appeared and I had to insist I would go back to the road. It was even more dangerous going back down with the bike, it kept getting away from me and stood the chance of getting damaged and that would be the finish of that!

Once down on the road, still with the children, we came upon a farmhouse and when they asked the owner, he offered me shelter and I was SAVED!! Shortly I think all the community turned up having heard I’m here and now it’s a riot! Nepal time is two hours back from China and I’ve had to alter my watch to 4.15. Met the German biker today making his way back to Kathmandu but I couldn’t ride with him, I was too exhausted – I also saw a British Exodus Expedition bus on the road today.

I spent the rest of the evening being questioned about my lifestyle, and I found out a little about theirs. After a small meal of rice I was shown to my bed on a landing at the top of rickety steep stairs and watched closely by peering eyes whilst I got to bed.

Thursday Sept 30th
Panchkhal

Up at 6 and was anxious to get under way to Dhulikhel. That was difficult as there were a lot of people around again, watching my preparation! Some were attending to buffalo milk production, others came to drink tea. The farmer was in charge and also ran a small shop selling cigarettes and other mysterious packages. I eventually said goodbye, he would not take my last rupees that I offered as thanks (11) and I was on my way at 6.30. Rode for a minute or two and I was soon down to walking once more, the road surface was better, but climbing again and the sun is up! Shall I be forced to walk the 11km to Dhulikhel I wonder?

Made it at 11 o’clock and yes! I did walk it, and was forced to stop several times whenever I saw water for a rest, and a cool wash. There was some shade on these occasions, if not I would never have made it, I was gasping and exhausted, frightened I would collapse and stand no hope of survival. The road snaked its way up and over a mountain rising all the time, Dhulikhel at the top is a mountain resort. The load seemed to be getting heavier now, which was a struggle even walking the bike, but am I glad to be here!?

One more day left and I should make it! ”the Lord is my saviour”. Wasn’t quite sure how to tackle the money problem, I only had 19 rupees together with one 3 dollar bill, I wonder what that will buy? It looks as if it’s going to take all the three dollars. Two dollars (95 rupees) for a room plus whatever I can get to eat for the other dollar. Having got settled in Dhulikhel Lodge (shades of the journey of 1990) the dormitory being the same price as a room I took the room.

Lay on the bed for an hour or two to rest and sort my thoughts out and in the afternoon took the camera and went out on the bike to find “Pradeeps” Everest viewpoint (a place I was shown by Pradeep in 1990). Sat meditating, took a few photos and spoke to a young lad who said he was a friend of Pradeep. He went off to tell him I was here, I waited for a while but decided it would get too complicated so I went back to the lodge for a meal. I haven’t eaten today so Chinese fried rice with vegetable seemed to be the most filling and that might even get me to Kathmandu tomorrow – I’ve got a 100 dollar bill to change then. It’s to bed now and a hope that tomorrow will see me in Kathmandu “at last!”

Friday October 1st
Dhulikhel

Up at 6.30 and on the road by 8 anxious to get under way, just managed to buy a glass of tea for breakfast using the last rupees. The 3 dollar bills took care of the room and the meal last night, now I’m broke and down to changing a 100 dollar bill in the street in Kathmandu, if I ever get there! Rode all the way this morning, descending into a valley on a fairly good road passing through places I’d seen before which seemed to have changed somewhat. It was hilly and traffic was heavy, even a trolley bus route from Bhaktapur to Kathmandu and I was having difficulty keeping out of the way of trolley buses, trucks, motor cycles, the odd bike riders,and pedestrians all using the road and honking horns all the time. Took one photograph and I’m here at 11 o’clock – whoever thought the bike would make it? or my body!!

The ride to the Thamel district took me 1 hour or more, I never thought I’d find it, but I did recognise it slightly, a little more developed now, tourism especially and more signs in English. I was looking for the White Lotus guest house (shades of 1990 again) and I had almost reached the Kathmandu Guest House before I realised I was lost. Turned back and found it, although things were different with a new proprietor, which led to negotiating a price with him of 102 rupees a night. Now I can get on with the preparation to get home WHOOPEE!!!!

At 10 o’clock I took a look at the Thamel district to see what had happened in 3 years. Didicos restaurant is not there, another building stands in its place and credit card signs are on many shop windows. The streets are a madhouse! Rickshaws, bicycles, taxis, cars, tempo’s, pedestrians and hundreds of tourist’s everywhere to the accompaniment of blasting horns and requests from street traders to purchase souvenirs, and shop keepers asking “buy carpet?, change money?” “step inside”. Well! I weakened to changing money, I just had to change that 100 dollar bill. The hope is it will see me through the next few days, Got 50 rupees for a dollar making 5,000 plus an extra 50 because it was a large denomination bill.

Now I’m solvent! and can pay my Lotus guest house expenses which will take care of 1,000 and maybe I’ll eat better now! I’ve ordered myself a couple of T shirts “Hard Rock Cafe, Kathmandu” logo on one and “FREE TIBET” on the other. Bought two necklaces for souvenirs from street traders and I’ll now get on with the job of getting home as soon as I can.

Attempts at getting a meal was disastrous, I’d decided on the German bakery but the electric power failed at 6.15 and all I got was a Tuborg beer, a previously ordered lasagne was not able to be cooked so it was off to another place beside “Le Bistro”. and I got it there at 7, still lots of tourists about, some speaking English.

On the table was a notice advertising a slide show “The road to Lhasa” at 6.30pm so it looks as if I’ve missed it. SHAME!! I enquired and spoke to a New Zealand guy in the office of “Ultimate Descents NEPAL” who had shown it and was told it might be shown again. If I’m still here I’ll see it!. Busy day today! better get to bed, it’s 9pm. I’ll start again in the morning!

Saturday October 2nd
Kathmandu

Up at 6.30 and off to Helena’s restaurant for breakfast of fruit, muesli and curd. I think I’ve used this place before but it will not be as enjoyable as breakfasts at Didico’s garden restaurant in 1990. No garden here, just sat inside at tables where I met and spoke to Jake.

He was an American from Minnesota on a round-the-world trip he plans to be home by February). We exchanged addresses over a chat at breakfast.

Now it’s off to find Lufthansa’s office, but that proved to be difficult. Asked at Tiger Tops office and was directed, but they added it would be closed today and possibly tomorrow so I set off to find the place so at least I know where it is when the time comes. Rode around aimlessly for 1⁄2 hour and gave up, not a sign of it anywhere! So on the way back to Thamel looking for any airline agency I saw a Lufthansa sign along with others in an agency window right near the Guest House. Great! an enquiry got them to mark the office on a local map. They wanted to do the business themselves, but I had to insist I dealt direct with the airline. No way! was I going to rely on a agency getting me home as soon as possible, I had a stand/by reservation with Lufthansa that I’d made in China whilst on my way to Lhasa and it needed confirming first!

I Set out again to find Lufthansa and would you believe it! – it was only a couple of blocks and British Airways office was in the same block. It was right however!, Lufthansa was closed so it looks as though I’ve got to wait until Monday. Spent the rest of the morning attending to last minute shopping and after lunch I’ll try and familiarise myself with the route to the airport, cannot chance finding my way there on the day! I’ll do a training run first. Armed with the map I’d just bought I went the shortest route but the road was narrow and busy, through shopping areas and the surface was bad. Came back round the ring road to find an alternative route, in case I needed it on the day. now it’s time for bed! Better use tomorrow preparing the bike for the flight, that will while away some time waiting for Monday, I’m dying to phone Helen.

Sunday October 3rd
Kathmandu

Didn’t get up till 8, breakfast at 9 in a garden restaurant, two pieces of egg any style, hash brown potatoes, grilled tomatoes or two pieces of toast with jam, butter, honey, tea or coffee, 35 rupees. Plenty of time today and not too much I want to do so I’m hanging about, just wanting to get home as soon as I can! Did a few checks on the bike, removed the front mudguard (I shall not be needing that anymore!). I have tools that will remove the pedals.the one real snag is I haven’t got an alan key to fit the head bolt so I can’t turn the handlebar sideways and one front wheel tracknut is done up so tight my spanner won’t shift it. Searched around locally but could find nobody who could help! Was told the bike shops were at Asan Tole so off I went!

With the bike I searched among crowds of shoppers (just like Petticoat Lane!) for an hour, it was pure bedlam again. After an hour I gave up (thought I’d got the wrong place) searched elsewhere and found my way back to Asan Tole!, Enquiring, I was told I would find a shop in the next street. There a lad did shift the track nut and I could cope with it after that. What he didn’t have was a alan key (his was worn out, and he cut the end off but it was still too small). Went to a neighbouring shop where they did manage to shift the bolt but would not sell me the key. Back to the first guy I got him to part with his, although he was reluctant. It took him some time to relent until I offered to swap my unwanted front mudguard for it! It’s taken me all morning to do this so I guess it’s back to Thamel for lunch, apple strudel and coke at Alices’ restaurant. Back at the White Lotus I gave the bike a rinse down with a bucket of water, ready for the journey. Perhaps the airline might accept it if it looks clean, even if it isn’t boxed.

On the way back from lunch I weakened and bought a Saringi (a handmade stringed instrument) from a street trader, 700 rupees. Had to haggle a bit, a larger one started at 2,500. I’m sorry now I never got a photo of him playing one and bought the tape he was selling. Never mind! I’ll try tomorrow. One other fright was that when I came to write all this I couldn’t find my diary! Thought I’d left it in Alices’ at lunch-time. So it was back there taking my camera with me in case I came across the Saringi guy. There was no success at either, and returning to the guest house I found the diary in a discarded shirt pocket! At least I can get down to writing again,there’s not much left to do today so it was a dinner beside Le Bistro and an early bed. Looking forward to tomorrow to get the flight sorted out.

Monday October 4th
Kathmandu

Blimey! I’ve just noticed it’s day 13 of the Tibet stage of the trip, hope that’s not a bad omen! Well, it’s far from that, I’ve called at Lufthansa and after a long wait they’ve confirmed my October 10th flight and brought it forward four days to October 6th. Got my ticket for around 1200 dollars on my credit card, now I must phone Helen!

WOW-eee!!! two more days and I’ll be home! The Lotus guest house say they can make international phone calls for customers, “sounds simple” but not quite! They tried several times for me but the area code 0708 was apparently incorrect, finally the guy suggested leaving the 0 off but if it was connected and found to be the wrong number, I’d have to pay. I took a chance and sure enough there was a ringing tone, but no answer! Now what!, it’s 8.45 London time and Helen should be preparing for school, I wonder if something has happened to her? and she is not there at all, any day! On the other hand it could be a wrong number and there is nobody there either! I just don’t know what to do!

I checked with a nearby communication company and they confirmed the 0 should be left off, they tried and got no reply (they tried twice). Now I really am worried!, is it a wrong number? or even country!, how am I going to let Helen know where I am and when I’m coming home, and how do I find out what has happened to her. I’d better try again tonight (her afternoon), or if not, tomorrow morning about 6 when she will have just gone to bed. Took a ride to Durbar square this afternoon to see if that has changed much over the years. Sure enough it has!, there’s more tourists around and I saw a group entering the Palace of Kumari (the child Goddess) and the whole place seemed to be much busier than before.

Back at the guest house I attempted to make another call to Helen. The guest house receptionist had gone home and wouldn’t be back until 6 in the morning so there was no way they were going to be any help! Took a walk down the road to another communication Co. and got them to try and would you believe it! yes the call was answered, Helen had just got in from school. What a wonderful feeling! she sounded fine, my worries were over and she said the same thing about herself. Now it’s just one more day to wait and we’ll be together again, the call was 6 minutes 1,050 rupees – £13.

Tuesday October 5th
Kathmandu

Up at 8 with not much to do all day, so popped in to see Greenhill Travel Co. who I had spoken to previously about their poster. “Overland to Tibet and Fly Out”. They gave me an itinerary and were evasive about price, “come tomorrow” they said. The managing director now says Tibet is closed for the winter, he’ll let me know about plans for 1994, “leave me your address”. I’ve got an idea they don’t welcome people who want to be a little bit self sufficient! Spent some time photographing a number of traditional buildings surrounding the Royal Palace – I’m still having trouble with the the film on the Canon AE1 it doesn’t seem to wind on. This time tomorrow I’ll be on the plane – “Roll on tomorrow”.

It was difficult to find anywhere to eat tonight, widespread power failures had affected most places. I finally found a Chinese / Italian place “Shenzen” offering Pizza (could it be Kathmandu’s “Pizza Hut”? I gave it a try! it’s the last time I shall be eating in Kathmandu – let’s hope I don’t fall sick!

I paid the Lotus G H bill today ready for an early get away in the morning 5 nights – 600 rupees, at the same time I eventually found out what the Queen of Nepal’s name is, her portrait was hanging over the reception desk when I paid the bill and I asked! After dinner making my way back to the Lotus I got to see a slide presentation given by the New Zealand guy of Ultimate Descent. It was very interesting, but not the advertised Road to Lhasa he won’t be doing that until Friday and I shall be gone! Better get to bed! I’ve got to be up at 5, ready for the off!!

Wednesday October 6th
Kathmandu

Up at quarter to five, naturally I hadn’t slept very well, much too concerned about getting to the airport as early as I could. I had to get someone to unlock the guest house gate and the room my bike was locked in! It was 5.20 when I left, and it was still dark but I got on better than I expected and was at the airport at six, just as it was getting light. Set about packing the bike and changing money, I knew that was going to be a problem because I’d changed money in the street, not at a bank so did not have a necessary exchange certificate. It proved useful as the counter clerk told me I would need 700 rupees airport tax, and I only had 450. So instead of changing money I ended up spending it and drawing another 250 rupees cash on my credit card! Then came the wait until 8.30 until the check-in desk opened, then the fun started!

The bike was the problem, it was excess baggage and they wanted 100 marks. I protested and told the Nepalese guys I had only chose to fly Lufthansa because I knew European airlines made no trouble and would not charge for transporting bikes. “Wait, speak to our boss” they said. Half an hour or so later he arrived and I spoke with him at length. He was German and spoke good English but would not bend an inch! He did tell me 100 German marks was about £40 (the Nepali’s were mentioning £60 or more). So I coughed up in the end and paid with my credit card. That rubbish bike has now cost me a fortune!!

Got through baggage check eventually and then immigration, a wait in departure lounge and I’m on board and on the way. I can’t believe it!! Just taxiing out to the runway and the captain tells us it’s a flight to Karachi of some 2 hours or so. Took a photo shot on the ground of the airport and now some 20 minutes out of Kathmandu at my window seat over the wing I’ve got a magnificent view of the Himalayas, beautiful blue skies and sun, white fluffy clouds below and protruding through them those tantalising snow covered jagged peaks. Got the camera poised to record the scene, pushed the shutter, and nothing happened!! the film’s run out! Haven’t got any others they’re in the checked baggage and my XA is also empty! What a “cock up” you’ve made of that Derek. So it’s farewell to the Himalayas, but not on film, Shame!, the conditions were ideal, it would have made a wonderful and memorable goodbye shot!

Apparently we’re passing over Dehli on the way but I haven’t seen it. Landed Karachi at 2.50 and wasn’t allowed to disembark Took off at 4.40 over desert areas and almost immediately are over sea, I suppose it’s the Persian Gulf but can’t see an oil tanker anywhere! We’ve changed crew now and are heading towards Tehran, Bulgaria, Austria, and Frankfurt, arriving in 7 hours or so. Landed Frankfurt at midnight, it’s been dark for some while now and there’s nearly 5 hours time difference so it’s really 7.15pm. Next stage is to London Heathrow. At Gate A14 I boarded at 9 o’clock and was away on time at 9.30 for a 1 hour flight, won’t be long now! almost made it!. The perfect ending of course was that Bob and Helen were there to meet me on my arrival at Terminal 2 – 22.45pm and “MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.”